Homemade concrete mixers: manual, electric

For the improvement of the site often needed a solution, then concrete. There is no time to knead it - heavily and long, and the quality of the solution is far from the best: it is difficult to achieve homogeneity. Not everyone wants to buy a concrete mixer for her periodic use. Good output - concrete mixer with your own hands. There is a little money, on performance, self-made units are not worse than Chinese, but sometimes better.

Manual concrete mixer

There is no electricity on the construction site, and large volumes of solution and concrete are not always required. Exit - make a concrete mixture of a small volume that will rotate manually (with a manual drive). The designs of these models are simple and uncomplicated.

From dairy flask

The simple manual concrete mixer can be made by the usual metal flask (earlier they sold in such milk). We still need trimming pipes or other scrap metal. The design is simple, such a concrete mixer is implemented in a couple of hours. The main thing is to weld the frame. The assembly of the concrete mixer itself will take a couple of tens of minutes.

Homemade concrete mixers: manual, electric

Design of hand concrete mixing of dairy flask

We make the bed, out of the round tube, fuse the handle. At the top of the bed, weld two water clutches (for example). Their inner diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe used for the handle. The pipe is passed through the flask, weld to the case.

How to find a center of gravity

So that the barrel spinning easily, it is necessary to find the center of gravity. To do this, it can be put on some subtle item, and moving forward / backward, find this very center. That's through it and you will need to skip the handle. By skipping the handle, it is fixed to the walls of the housing. Difficulties may arise: the flasks are usually made from an aluminum alloy, and the handle can be made of steel. Connect from using welding will not be possible. The only available output is cold welding. He is quite real. The remaining modes - with bimetallic gaskets or argon-disposable welding at home are not implemented. Another way out is to weld the plates on the handle that stick to the sides of the flasks.

So that the handle is not very pitted and not falling out when working, nuts weld to it from both sides of the coupling.

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In general, this is all the manufacture of manual concrete mixer with your own hands. For one, 2.5-3 buckets of the solution can be obtained in one-liter bidon. For use in the country or on a plot near the house (without a construction site) more than enough.

If there is no bidon, you can adjust the barrel (thick-walled). Then the problem with the welding handle disappears, but you have to come up with a lid fixation system. You can make something similar to the one that is available at the bidon.

In the video - an example of a handmade self-made concrete mixer made of dairy flask. The design is a bit different, but not too different. There is an interesting idea - dividers are welded inside the tank, which accelerate mixing.

From barrel (manual and with electric drive)

This design called the "Drunk Barrel" - due to a peculiar trajectory of movement. The whole point is that the axis of rotation goes through the container of the necchock. Due to which the solution rolls over from one wall to another. The design is also simple and effective. What is important - there are no problems with welding heterogeneous metals. Drawing of manual concrete mixer from the barrel is shown below.

Drawing of hand homemade concrete mixer from barrel

In the upper part of the frame in the center, bearings are installed in which the handle has grown. Thanks to them spinning 200 liter barrel easily. Just choose a container with thick walls - last longer. Inside, no additional blades do not weld: they only delay the components, mixing stirring and complicate the unloading.

In the original design, the loading / unloading hatch is in the bottom. This is a cut part (approximately 1/3), attached with the hinge to the bottom, equipped with a sealing rubber around the perimeter and closing into two locks. When loading, the barrel turn so that the hatch is at the top. When unloading - rotate down. The solution of gravity moves into the substituted container, and the sticking can be removed by knocking on the housing with a hammer or sledge hammer.

Advanced homemade bracket concrete mixer

This design served in the author 10 years, although it was done for one-time work, but it turned out to be very successful: 2.5 buckets of the solution are well mixed in 20-30 revolutions. During this time, her neighbors and acquaintances were repeated and improved. Mostly alterations concerned Luke. The most successful design is identified experimentally - similar to the one that is used in the dairy flask. Such a "neck" is welded to the body of a barrel with one of the sides (see photo at the top). Also make handles on both sides - for the possibility of working together.

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Mechanization in action: Manual concrete mixer turns into electric

This design is easily converted into an electrical homemade concrete mixer. A not very powerful engine is set - 1 kW for a barrel of 200 liters is enough, to the axis of which a small asterisk is attached to the axis of the pipe larger (to reduce the number of revolutions), they are connected using a chain (from a scooter, for example).

Electro-concrete mixer with her hands from barrel and engine washing machine

This concrete mixer is reduced type. For the manufacture of this model needed:

Barrel made of galvanized steel by 180 liters (diameter 560 mm, height - 720 mm);
Engine washing machine - 180 W, 1450 rpm;
Flywheel and starter gear from Muscovite 412;
Two pulleys from a washing machine with a diameter of 300 mm and 60 mm;
Wheels from a garden trolley;
Scrap metal for frame.

Gears, wheels - all old, everything was in the garage

This is also not new

First of all, we all clean up from rust, process the rust converter and coated with soil.

Processing details

Cook frame from pipes, channel. Rama angles enhance the welding of the metal plate. Everything should be tough and reliable. The crossbar do serious: it will "hang" a barrel with a solution on it, and everything will still vibrate and spin.

Frame - base of construction. Pipes are almost new))

We weld the pins, landing space under the gear gear. We clean from rust, process the rust converter, soil.

Processed Rama

Fresh wheel from the trolley. They with wide treads and justified themselves: to drag the concrete mixer is simple, even just in the site.

Attached wheels

From the pipes can be more constructions for stopping and installing the entire "filling".

Two more triangular designs

They are also fucked on the frame

Second - for greater stability

We start collecting the drive. First put a big gear on the previously welded pin.

We put a big gear

In the landing site, we set the assembly - a small gear connected to the wheel for belt transmission.

Big gear transmission

To the welded plates of the plates are securely.

Let the engine hang

It is suspended so that two wheels of the belt transmission are on the same level. It is also necessary to ensure normal belt tension.

Motor installed

It remains to attach a barrel. In the center we make a hole under the big pulley, drill a hole for fasteners. Put in place.

In the bottom of the barrel make holes. When installing do not forget about sealing gum

So she looks like a frame

Another perspective

Transfer closer

It remains only the electrical part. Connect the cable through the starter with the button.

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Connect the cable through a starter with a button.

Multiple photos of the main nodes. Maybe someone needs to look closer.

Gear and fastening barrels

Motor suspension on the plate is quenched most of the vibrations

Near a different angle

The second transmission option - from a car disk

The barrel is 200-liter, her edges were cut, bent and welded, forming the familiar "pear."

From the barrels made a "pear"

The car disk attached bolts to the bottom (with rubber gaskets). It was selected so that the removal for the belt transmission was formed. The disk had previously attached the hub.

For belt transmission

Inside the barrel welded blades for more efficient mixing of the solution.

Blades inside

All this farm attached to the frame.

Barrel and drive for belt transmission installed on the frame

Where the plate is welded - a place for the engine. I exhibit it so that the belt goes smoothly. Power filed through the toggle switch, the timer is sequentially included from the washing machine with which the motor was removed.

Back view. Under metal sheet motor

In general, the speed of rotation turned out to be 35-40 revolutions per minute. It should be enough.

All transmission looks like

Side view

Homemade stirrers in the video version

If the general principle is clear how the concrete mixer is done with their own hands, you can upgrade it and redo it, adjusting to the available parts. Assist in this video collected in this section.

Crown type

Another option, only no longer, and a crown type. The crown, by the way, can be bought (cast iron or plastic) and install on the barrel.

With rollers as a support

Collable barrel mixer

First page

Drawing of concrete mixer

Work description

Specification

Photo of homemade concrete mixers (may be useful)

Each or almost every concrete mixer made with their own hands has some original solutions. Few people repeats the design completely, without making any changes - you have to adapt to those details and nodes that are in stock. Some interesting solutions are in the photo.

If you leave the bottom of the usual barrel without amplification, the thin metal (3-4 mm) may not withstand loads and it will simply turn it out. Therefore, it is better to screw the corners or P-shaped rolled