For registration of door sluts there are two technologies: plastering and decoration by solid finishing materials like laminated MDF, plastic, plasterboard, etc. Aligning the door slope by plaster is the most reliable way in terms of security. The way: there is no cracks and gaps, to knock out the door will be very difficult. Therefore, plastering the slopes usually near the entrance doors. But, as always, there are shortcomings: this work is quite a lot of time, and without the skills to achieve good results difficult. It's easier to sheathe. You do not need to be a witch to suggest that you are most often your hands from drywall. Why - it is clear: the material is inexpensive, the technologies are known, it is simple to work with it, the result is good.
This species have doors after installation - you need to do
An ordinary plasterboard is used to decorate indoors. If there is a need to make a break outside or in a wet room - you need to take moisture-proof. The thickness of the sheets is the usual, such as used for the walls - 12.5 mm.
To work, you will need a good stationery paper knife, you may need perforated painting corners and mounting foam. I will definitely need a putty: close the slots and bring everything into normal state.
So it may look like the doors after finishing the slopes of iggsocardon, and that you can make it yourself
Preparation for finishing
Before starting work on finishing the door sluts, all communications are paving, which should pass through the doors. For example, if the doorway is issued in the doorway, it can be a wire wire, lighting over the door, etc. If the incidents of interroom doors are drawn up, it can be a telephone cable or twisted pair to connect the Internet.
By skipping the necessary communications into the gap between the door frame, securing them, the cracks close up by mounting foam. Foams are not more than 1/3 of the volume of the slots: it expands greatly and can even bring the wooden door frame. Therefore, if the box is wooden, for a while until the reaction takes place, it is recommended to set the struts that guarantee the constant geometry.
Registration of door slopes with their own hands begins with sealing slots between the door frame and the wall
The time required for the hardening of the foam depends on the temperature and humidity of the air, but on average it is 8-12 hours (for some species a day may be required). The surplus of the hardened foam is cut off with a knife, plaster, which is well kept, removed, dust and dirt are sweeping. You can begin work on the finishing of doorways.
How to make slips from drywall
Setting the slips from the drywall, it is important to correctly and accurately measure the necessary elements. For this measure the distance from the door jamb to the angle in several places, measure the height of the required parts. Measurements are made for each side separately: rarely walls have perfect geometry.
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All dimensions are applied to a sheet of drywall connect lines. Once again everything is placed and, if everything is correct, cut out.
So roughly looks like a "pattern" for slips from drywall
Drawing plasterboard
Cut the plasterboard is simple: you need a good paper knife, a long line (meter or so) and a wooden bar. A ruler is applied to the drawn line, along it is carried out with a paper with a knife, cutting a sheet of cardboard and trying at least a little hardening gypsum. Under the place where the section was made laying the bar and slightly climb along the sheet along the cut. Gypsum is breaking, and almost perfectly exactly along the cut line. All that remains - cutting the bottom sheet of cardboard.The video shows how to cut drywall without a saw.
In this way, it is convenient to cut drywall in a straight line. Where the curved lines are needed to use the cutter for metal - she has a small tooth and it almost does not tear cardboard. Apply another electrolovka, but a lot of dust is very much. You can cut with a knife or jigsaw and in a straight line, if you don't like the previous way.
Instructions for the installation of gisokarton slopes
Cut from plasterboard items can be set:
- on the mounting foam;
- on putty;
- on the frame.
On the mounting foam
Gypsum foam "stick" can anyone
Fix the carved sheets on the mounting foam is very simple. But you can immediately do this in the event that there are no big holes on the slopes. If the depressions are up to 3 cm, you can set the slopes at once, only the largest potholes are pre-filled with foam (do not apply a lot, somewhere 1/3 from the outlet volume).
If irregularities are deeper than 3 cm, they are better to pre-close with cement mortar or composition for starting plaster.
The order of work when installing door slips from drywall on the mounting foam such:
- Preparing a platform (removing dust and falling off pieces, filled with a large deepening foam with foam) on the back side of the billet from drywall thin (1 cm no more). Snake apply a mounting foam.
- Install the element in place, press the wall, as this fragment should stand.
- Take off it and put in the direction of 5-8 minutes. Foam remained on the wall, and on a sheet of plasterboard. In a few minutes it increases in volumes.
- Install a part of the slope in place and press well. Leave in such a state to complete rejection of the foam (12-24 hours).
- Close up the gap between the plasterboard elements and the plaster wall.
Suns from drywall is made, remained work on finishing.
The disadvantages of this method are quite serious. First, the side and vertical surfaces need to be pre-aligned, otherwise it is unable to install elements. Secondly, there is the likelihood that the workpiece will argue / will come. Thirdly, there are emptiness. Well, the most important - the mount is not the most reliable. But the door slings are made simply and quickly.
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On putty
Instead of the mounting foam "Glit", the cut fragments can be on diluted putty:
- The sheets are applied to the sheets from diluted to the state of the paste composition for work with plasterboard (better - finishing, it is more "sticky"). They should be located around the perimeter and in some places in the middle.
- Purified from dust and cracked old Swap plaster sprinkle with a pulverizer with water.
- Install the workpiece in place and press well. You can rest in the plane of the palms and "shake" a fragment from side to the side. Feel that the plaster began to break out, and a piece of drywall "adhesive".
- If a fragment is tight and not stirred, you can leave it until the putty is grab (for a day, sometimes two). If the element keeps insecure and can move, it needs to be confused. Preferably at the edges and in the middle. Leave in this form at least for 10-12 hours. Then the backups can be removed and waited to completely dry the putty.
Methods for applying "patches" from putty can be different. The main thing is to keep the element well
The disadvantages of this method are the same. It is only necessary to say that the slopes on the windows in our apartment are made in this way. It was about 9 years ago, and still - no problems.
On frame
A more time-consuming, but also a more reliable and universal way to install slips from drywall - to the collected framework. Frames make wooden bars or special profiles.
Guides exhibit vertically along the door jamb and at the corner. Between them, at a distance of 50-70 cm put small transverse jumpers.
To install slopes from drywall with your own hands, first collected frame. It can be made of profiles or wooden bars
With this method there is one feature: measurements are carried out after the framework is installed. Cut parts are put in place and secured with the help of screws.
If the frame is assembled from profiles, self-tapping screws are needed by metal, if from bars - on wood. In any case, twist need carefully: so as not to break the cardboard. If you strongly drag, it can even burst or reck out the plaster. A large amount of marriage of this kind will lead to the fact that the slopes from drywall will be bad to hold.
Sealing slots and design of the outer corner
The last touches before the finishing finish of the slope on the door - sealing the gaps. They can be sampled by a special ribbon to seal the corners, and then shock. This method is enjoyable in a place where the plasterboard connects with the door frame or where the vertical and horizontal parts of the slope are connected. If the gaps here turned out very small, they simply can be smeared with putty and align well.
The tape for finishing the corners can be paper or fiberglass. Both are well coped with their task - prevent cracking
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For the design of the other side, there are also several ways. The first is to attach the same ribbon to finish the corners. But this method is suitable if the angle turned out to be smooth, there are no problems. Newbies have such a situation rarely. Alto more often the angle must be "output." In this case, a metal greasy corner is used. He has two parties to perforate, which makes it possible to consolidate it in several ways:
- on plasticine pieces;
- on a thick sleeve;
- on self-tapping screw or carnations.
In the case of carnations, you need to be careful: they can be clamped when working. In general, this method is convenient, but again, if the angle turned out almost perfect.
Pluging the corners, slips from drywall finally put in order - putty
Perforated corners are exhibited by level and in the same plane with the main wall. Formed voids are filled with a diluted to the pasty state with putty. For primary alignment, use starting putty. After it dries, all irregularities smooth with a special grid. It is used instead of sandpaper, which putty clogs instantly. A grid for sanding putty sold in the same stores where plasterboard is sold. On the aligned surface, then apply a layer of finishing, leveling putty. Its after drying, too, should be brought to an ideally even state. Do this all the same grid, only more thin.
If you have such a dress with putty seems difficult, read how to make slopes from MDF. There is definitely there is no putty.
In general, without having experience, the outer corners are difficult to make perfect. Even when working with plasterboard. By installing perforated metal corners, we greatly facilitate our task. But, anyway, it does not always work out everything perfectly. But in this case there is a way out: decorative plastic corners. They are installed after the finishing of the walls is completed. We are selected or in the door of the door, or in the tone of the finish. Glued on liquid nails. All you need is to cut them down at the desired length. They cut in conventional scissors. Here the main thing is to the top exactly cut off the angle under 45 °.
Decorative corner for slopes will hide all defects
If the style of the decoration is more suitable for wood, you can find a similar corner and from wood.
You can arrange an outer corner of the slope with a wooden corner
In fact, the role of a decorative corner for slopes is not only a decoration. He still protects the angle from damage. Especially relevant for the entrance doors. If everything is saved by wallpaper, he also protects them from damage, which also often happens. That's all, the slopes from the drywall are made, and with their own hands.
All these methods can be combined, such as in the video.