In winter, the chickens may be not worse than in the warm season. If it is warm enough (the perfect mode from -2 ° C to + 20 ° C), there will be enough light and good (not excessive, and balanced in size) nutrition, the number of eggs may be the same or slightly smaller. In addition, knowing that your bird is warm, you can not worry. Therefore, we immediately build a winter chicken coop with your own hands with sufficient insulation, or take measures to reduce heat losses if the finished room is already construed.
Warm barn for chickens and lighting - this is what is important for their normal well-being
Immediately about the size of winter chicken coopers. The standards of placement of the bird indoors are recommended such: from 2 to 5 chickens per square. If in size on the area is constrained, you can and densely "populate" the house. You just need to make more nests and petrolers. They can be located in rows, one over the other. In the multi-tiered small rooms, non-dryers feel perfectly. With broorals, of course, the case is worse - they are hard to climb them, but they are rarely kept until winter.
Winter walking is also needed: right up to -15 ° C Nuts can walk on the street. Only in windless weather. With a height, too, everything is more or less understandable. Curads are sufficient and meter-one and a half, but you need to do so that you can conveniently serve the room.
From what to build
It is possible to build a chicken coop from slagoblock, foam concrete. If there is not far away, where there is clay, you can drive out the walls on the saman technology (Mazanka or to ache bricks).
If you need a budget warm chicken coop - you can make it along the type of zeal. Walls can be removed half the meter above the level, in South make well insulated windows with double-triped windows. Well insulation that piece that stands on the ground, and the roof. For heat all the walls, except southern, it will be possible to fall asleep the earth. If there is still snow covered, it will be very warm.
Those who are seriously going to study the bird breeding, it is worth thinking about the construction of a foam concrete smoke concrete: it is lightweight, warm
Another most, perhaps, the popular and economical option is a frame chicken coop with your own hands. Since the premises are usually small, the ram for the frame is needed a small cross section and it takes a little. Cut the frame can be board, plywood, osp and other similar material. Between the racks lay the insulation and sew on the other side. So that mice do not settled in the insulation, the people came up with the insulation of the heater on both sides with a metal grid with a shallow cell. This somewhat lends the price, but to fight with mice - more expensive. It turns out a warm chicken coop and the thickness of the insulation depends on the region. You can navigate on the recommendation for the construction of frame houses.
Without insulation in the middle lane, a chicken coop of a log or a thick bar can do. Just seams canopate need to sew the rails. Not as much from drafts, how many from the chickens: so as not to jerk the pass or moss.
Foundation under the chicken coop
There are options. Build most often on the columns - make a column foundation. It happens - make a small-breeding pile or tape. But this is if the material is chosen heavy, or which requires a tight base: brick (ceramic, silicate, samanny), foam and slag, rikushnyak, etc. For light buildings from wood - sander, bar, logs - enough to fold the columns or put ready-made foundation blocks (they can be made independently).
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These are the columns under the frame shed for chickens
In the case of a column and pile foundation, the supports put in the corners and 2-3 meters in the interval between them. The load on the base will be small, therefore it is very rarely learned.
Insulation
Warming and heating - these two questions are linked very tight: in the warm chicken coop, even in a laid cold, you can do without heating. There are quite a few examples. Whatever economical heating is, it flies into a good penny as a result. Therefore, it is much more cost-effective to build a well warmed shed immediately than even annually pay for its heating.
As a heater, any modern materials can be used. You can fill them from the inside or outside. The main selection criterion is most often cost. The most optimal - foam. It is inexpensive, has an excellent heat insulating ability: a plate with a thickness of 5 cm replaces 60 cm of a brick wall. Mounted on glue or long nails with plastic washers, you can put pieces of some plastic.
Heat chicken coop mineral wool
You can also use mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. But minvat requires a membrane from two sides. Outside, they put wind-hydraulic protective with one-sided vapor permeability (the pairs should be removed from the insulation). From the inside (indoors) Paro not permeable.
Polystyrene foam is definitely good. The characteristics are even better than the foam, it is not even like mice. But he is roads. But it can not even wash it: the plates are smooth, smooth, there are still colored.
You can still use natural insulation: score between two planes sawdust, to deceive clay mixed with sawdust, etc. By heat saving, such insulation is inferior to modern materials, but almost nothing worth it. So such methods are also used. For the southern regions with the soft winters of the "folk" insulation, more than enough, and even in the central part, and even more so in the north, they, perhaps, can not do.
This is a speech about the walls. The ceiling in the chicken coop insulation is necessary: warm air accumulates under the ceiling. If he is unworthy, it will always be cold. If you beat the cardboard from below (it is well held heat) or any slab material (plywood, OSP, DVP, GWL, etc.), and on top of the attic to throw sawdust or put the hay, will become much warmer. And if you insulate in all the rules - generally excellent.
The insulation of the floor is made by the same scheme as for the house: the draft floor, on it - lags, between them the insulation, on top of the purple floor. Make it as warm as possible: you will not regret.
Not everyone makes the floor wooden. Even there is global - clay interfere with straw and give dry, or concrete. The coldest is concrete, but if you pour a sufficient amount of sawdust, it will be fine. And if, suddenly, still make a concrete floor with insulation (at least to climb the bottles), it will be great in general.
Floor insulation option in chicken coop
When you still plan a winter chicken with your own hands, pride the presence of a tambour. This small extension allows us to significantly reduce heat loss, which means to reduce heating costs.
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The internal arrangement of the chicken coop is described here.
Heating
Overestimate the value of properly arranged heating for the winter chicken coop is difficult. It knows all the owners of the poultry houses: with the plus temperature of the lacking, they feel perfectly and in the winter are not bad.Electricity
If electricity is connected to the chickenter, you can warm fan heaters or infrared lamps. Fan heaters Cheaper to buy programmable. Not in the sense that they cost cheaper, but in the fact that electricity over the winter will wock less. There are two types of automation: temperature and time. Naturally, it is better to take the one that reacts to the temperature to heat the chicken coop. As it grows, let's say to 0 ° C, it will turn on, as it will rise to + 3 ° C, it will turn off. In general, you choose the settings yourself. The method is effective and quite popular.
More often chickens IR emitters . But they are not heating air, but objects that fall into the ray zone. They are hanging over the piping and several pieces above the floor. If the bird is cold, they are going under them. In the chicken coop can be cold, the main thing is that its inhabitants are warm. This is exactly what happens with infrared heating. One nuance: IR lamps burn out of frequent on / off, because it is desirable to cut down very rarely. People are burning for months, the benefit of the electricity is a bit.
It is also important to know about the features of the operation of IR heating lamps (there is for lighting, do not confuse). The surface of the lamp is heated, the design of the lamp is not adapted under such loads. Plastic cartridges do not hold the lamp well, and find ceramic - the problem. To ensure fire safety, it is better to make a wire cell for a lamp. So the chickens will not be burned and if the lamp falls, it will not break up and the litter will not break.
Oil radiators ineffective: the consumption is large, there is little heat. Homemade devices with an open spiral are effective, but very fire hazardous, and they will have to leave them included. It is too big risk.
IR lamp heater in the mesh casing
Boiler and burzhuyka
There is also an option of heating - boiler and batteries. But these are dreams for the majority. They still be burzhuyka, wood boiler or fold a small brick stove. And trying the pipe to spend on the chicken coop - so that it gives the maximum to the maximum. If the stove is iron, it can be chopped by a brick, like the iron pipe. Warring, the brick is holding warm for a long time. With normal insulation of one protood, there is enough for a couple of days.Heating of the chicken coop due to decomposition of sawdust
There is a way to maintain a positive temperature without heating - due to heat released during the decomposition of sawdust. But it works only under the condition of normal (at least) insulation. Sawdust poured on the floor. The first layer is falling asleep with an autumn, before the first cold. A layer of about 10-15 cm. It lies a month and a half.
Such a slope is much better than hay: the chickens do not hurt, since the sawdusts are well regulated humidity. They also love to rummage in the litter, and constantly it is occupied, so non-bipes are not fat even with abundant stern and limited walking.
Chickens with sawdust feel perfectly even in the cold
30-50 days later, add a fresh portion of sawdust (you will understand the smell and appearance). And this time, too, about 10 cm. Then - more. By the end of winter, the layer is already accumulating about 50 cm. And even in decent cold inside the chicken, the temperature is kept not lower than 0 ° C, which is enough for non-masters. If you break into such a litter, there will be order + 20 ° C. That chickens in the cold and do: the pits are rotting and sit down in them. These sawdust succeed: the decomposition reaction is underway with the release of a large amount of heat.
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In the spring, the whole mixture is taken into a compost bunch, after some time there will be excellent fertilizer. But even the moment: in the fall in front of the door you have to fill a high board: so that the litter is not poured. Walking uncomfortable, but the draft from the door is eliminated.
Ventilation in the winter chicken coop
To maintain a normal microclimate in the chicken, ventilation requires ventilation. It is usually a plastic tube that is under the ceiling passes through the roof and sticks out above it at a height of about a meter. With such a drop can be enough of natural traction. The influx usually occurs through the gaps, but if you all embarked on conscience, you can connect a piece of plastic pipe to the wall slightly above the floor level. From the side of the room, the pipe is closed with a metal mesh, and dampers are made that regulate the intensity of the air movement.
Another option without an exhaust pipe on the roof: straight into the wall to embed a small exhaust fan. But such a system works forcibly and in the presence of electricity. The pipe is non-volatile))
Fan in chicken coop
The optimal humidity in the chicken coop is about 60-70%. Deviations in the other side are undesirable. Increase moisture is not very difficult - to put more water, but problems may arise with a decrease. Condensate IR lamp is very well dried: in a couple of hours, dries on the walls and the ceiling. So, at least one needed to regulate humidity.
Lighting
In any chicken, there must be windows. And even through them is warm, it is not necessary to do without them: to maintain normal state, the bird is needed solar light. And to be warm, the frames are made with two and three glasses. And be sure to be sewn them from the inside, although it does not hurt outside, but no longer for the safety of birds, but for its preservation.In order for chickens in the winter to continue to ride, they need to prolong the daylight: at least it should be 11-12 hours. Therefore, they put them include lighting. It is better to immediately install the controller that will turn on and disable the light automatically. We spend more money, but you will walk less in the smokeshief.
At first, some chickens will stay overnight on the floor (those that did not climb into the nests), but if the floor is warm, with sawdust - nothing terrible. Gradually, they will be accustomed to the time of shutdown will sit on the ground.
There is an option - make them an early rise, and to leave the evening natural. Then the light will burn in the morning, and in the evening with the onset of twilight they will fit to sleep through the sun.
How to build a summer chicken coop with a walk, read here.
How to build a bug chicken coop: video
In this video, the chicken coop is being built by a citizen who escaped to the village. The photographs of the process are collected in the video, so all steps are visible.
Another video with a clear sequence of the chicken coop of timber