Computer cooling with a water method is not an alternative to air, but the cooling of the third generation, which is designed to replace the second. The first generation was passive cooling (you could meet on the legendary hemp 166). The second can be considered the first, only armed with a fan (this type of cooling was obtained the widespread development). Third can be boldly called water, but this does not mean that life has stopped at this, recently serial freon settings and systems based on Peltier elements have been created. But in our article we will focus on the water, as it is currently the most relevant. The water cooling system of the computer attracts first its relatively low price, good superiority over the air, in terms of lower temperatures. But the most important, in my opinion, the factor is noise. After all, its practically silent !!! We will get acquainted closer with the heroine of the article. What does it consist of and what kind of device is? According to their work scheme, it can remind car cooling, but there is differences.
Main components:
- water supply (so to speak his heart);
- heat removal radiator (can work in passive mode, to reduce noise, and can be loaded with a fan, to achieve the greatest performance);
- Pomp (designed to force the circuit fluid in the chain, and thereby distinguish the heat from the water-block)
- Capacity for fluid and hoses (as connecting links between parts of its).
The water voltage, the most important part of His, in its powers it includes the duty to dispel heat along its surface and to remove it by means of liquid. It is usually made of high quality copper, already less often from aluminum. This is determined by the fact that copper has greater thermal conductivity, unlike aluminum. (Cu 393TMK, A1209WTMK).
The design of the water-block
Waterblock design options. Creepy quantity. On the Internet, the branches of conferences on the most
Effective design is excised for a thousand pages. In general, the design of the Waterblock does not greatly affect the temperature of the processor, but sometimes important and a couple of degrees. In my opinion, the most successful is a snake "from the center", but this does not mean that the design is the best, I just liked it, because the flow of water beats directly to the center (the hottest place of the block), and takes the warmth warmer to us!
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From the picture, a clear view of how the block should work should work, in one fitting the water enters, out of the other :). You can mount it like CPU and GPU! Fall further, and then we have a radiator. It is necessary for removal of Celsius beyond the system unit, it is also armed with two fittings, thanks to which it is connected to the water-block hoses. From the water-block, the liquid falls into the radiator and leaves it warm to it, and it in turn dispels it.
Many craftsmen use car radiators, which sometimes wipe the nose to serial models, but due to their bulky and inconvenience of fastening, are used, as a rule, in self-made systems.
The use of anti-corrosion liquids
But do not forget that the system can use the parts that are made of aluminum, and how you remember from chemistry lessons, hydrolysis leads to oxidation of metals. This can reduce the characteristics or in some cases to derive the system. This is a panacea, special fluids, such as antifreeze or antifreeze with an anti-corrosion property, but Tosol has a high fluidity and your cooling system can leak, even if the water does not succeed, it will definitely give a jet. To improve productivity on the radiator, it is recommended to put a slightly fan, but it can add substantial noise into the general feature background of your PC. I strongly do not recommend contacting aluminum!
Select pump
Pomp, no less important device than all of the above. When designing the system, it is necessary to immediately decide what type of pump you will use - external or submersible. As follows from the name, the difference between these two types is in the way of the water intake - if the first only passes it through yourself, then it pushes it, being immersed in it. Obviously, the system with remote pump will be more voluminous, since the submersible pump saves the place, placed inside the expansion tank. In addition, the pump, like any other electrical device, highlights a certain amount of heat when working. In the case of a remote pump, it will be highlighted directly into the housing, and the submersible will dispel it in the reservoir washing fluid. For these reasons, it should not be carried out without the need to get involved in powerful pumps - not only its performance will grow with increasing power, but also heat dissipation.
For an example - a pump with a capacity of 2000 l / h distinguishes about 25 W heat. Moreover, an increase in fluid flow rate will not be proportionally affected by cooling efficiency. It may happen that you will not notice the difference between the pump per 1000 and 2000 liters. However, the use of a powerful pump will be justified in the presence of a complex long circuit (setting several Waterlel blocks, a large height difference), whose pumping is a weak pump may be difficult. It is necessary to take into account that the performance of water pumps, indicated in their characteristics, is the maximum possible, i.e. Without load and additional resistance when pushing the liquid. The performance of the pump is influenced by such factors as: the viscosity of the fluid, the diameter of the channel over the entire contour, the purity of the pumping tree of the pump (so with long-term operation in the dirty water, it is covered by a raid) and the most important is the height difference.
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Manufacturers of aquarium pumps for each model indicate the height on which the pump is capable of pushing the liquid. This must be taken into account when selecting the pump to a specific cooling system - real performance will be an order of magnitude lower. You can buy pumps in any aquamagazine. All aquarium pumps are designed for power from a 220V network. Finding in the free sale of pumps adapted on 12V is almost unrealistic. When buying should be taken into account that external pumps, on average, two times more expensive. From those available on sale POMP, the highest quality (but expensive) are products manufactured by Italy. Cheaper, traditionally include Chinese and Polish pumps. Speaking that aquarium pumps are almost silent, I want to note that the rule is exceptions, and that not all yogurts are equally useful. When buying (especially powerful pump), ask the seller to turn it on. In the air, it is likely to make crackling the blades, but you can get a common picture about its acoustic characteristics.
It would be perfect if you were demonstrated by immersing it into the water. Of course, to create water movement in the system, you can not be limited to "fish" pumps. Some experimenters are used powerful circulation pumps for water supply systems, etc. However, in my opinion, aquarium pumps for this role are better suitable - price / performance ratio !!! The best are considered in the people of Eheim, Hydor and Heto, and a kind of middle manner can perform Chinese RESUN.
Well ... With an expansion tank, everything seems to be clear and understandable, it should be a pump and liquid, and the hoses are deployed from the pump, as clearly seen in the figure.
Floor and tube
The best material for fittings is brass, it is less subjected to oxidation and corrosion, in addition it will not conflict with the copper base of the Waterleblock. Silicone tubes with a diameter of 10-12mm, in abundance are sold on the car market. Less - hydrosistrate significantly increases, the pump is strongly loaded, its performance falls. More, as a rule, does not allow free space, which should remain after the suproying system inside. There are reinforced and not. The reinforced are good in the fact that they are not closed on bends, bad in that they are thicker at about 2mm. The tubes on the fittings it is very desirable to clamp clamps while the water is cold - the tubes are sitting tightly, but when water is heated, water leakage can occur, so it is better to be restrained. The connection of the Waterblocks can be consistent, parallel and parallel-consistent. Parallel inclusion does not bring any tangible benefit, but there are several disadvantages of such a system. The first is the need for additional details - splitters. The second - branched contour can have a different hydraulic resistant and a different level, in this case, in the circuit with a smaller resistance water will go large, and in the other with a smaller one. Do we need it?
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Well, everything seems to be theory, go to practice, namely to the assembly. It is perfectly illustrated in the figure below. Do not forget to tighten the clamps in the assembly process in the assembly process, and then the lacquer will fly and fill all your beloved car :).
P.S. Such a system is good because it works fine and silently. It is easily shared with any air cooled. Wateranka in a few years will forever piss the coolers familiar to us and will take a worthy place in the life of the user, having ceased to be such a wonder as at the moment!