How to build households from wood, on a metal frame

Having bought a plot, the land, think about what needs to stay somewhere during the construction of the house. Such a temporary inhabitant in the country or garden plot is the lot. A small insulated structure, the size of usually 3 * 6 or so. There are a lot of offers on the market: from wood and metal. But the quality of them is more than doubtful, in construction uses the cheapest materials. This is easy to make sure, considering the costs that you incur, if you decide to make food with your own hands. With the same dimensions, you have cheaper, most likely will not work, and if saving, then small. You will consider normal materials, and not the cheapest. But on quality and strength, homemade cabins are many times superior to the purchased.

Movie on the site first (or second after the toilet) The structure that appears on the site

What and how to build

Almost all cabins are built on frame technology. As building materials for the frame, a wooden bar minimum is 100 * 150 mm or profiled metal pipe 60 * 60 * 2 mm.

To cover the selection of materials is much wider. Use:

edged board;
Sheet material - Faneru, OSB, chipboard;
Proflist;
siding.

In any case, the casing is done on both sides - outside and from the inside. The outer can be metallic, and inside more often do or lining or puff or osb.

One of the options for garden cabins

Between the two shelves laid thermal insulation. Though the structure and temporary, spring and autumn, and sometimes summer nights can be very cold. Therefore, without insulation - in no way. Insulation can be anyone. Better - mineral wool, cheaper - foam. The best characteristics are extruded polystyrene foam, but also the highest price too. Only choosing the insulation, keep in mind that the foam sounds almost flutters, so they will not be able to sleep very nervous. Therefore, the optimal choice is mineral wool. What layer? If by the mind, then in the middle lane of Russia, it is desirable 100 mm, but at least 50 mm.

Please note that the floor is needed. Especially - Paul. The bottom is very pulling. Therefore, it should be double: first the draft, on top, across the board, put lags, between them the insulation, and then the finishing floor.

Layout and drawings

Despite the construction is considered temporary, often thickly it turns into a bath or guest house. Therefore, even in the hotel there is such a concept as a layout. Even temporary housing should be relatively comfortable.

Calcule-car

There are two main types of cabins: the wagon and a sprawler. In the construction of the type "Wagon", the entrance is on the side, inside there is no separation, in the extreme case put a partition - by 1.5-2 meters from the entrance. This room is used as a tambour dressing room and a warehouse for storing the tool. This is the easiest possible options.

Drawing of the cabinet-trailer with dimensions

In the drawings there will be graphic and digital designations, their decoding in the photo below.

Designation in drawings

Dispense

The most popular planning is pamping. This is when the entrance is in the middle. Moreover, the middle is fenced off and used as a tambour, storage room, etc. The purpose of the other two rooms can be different. Someone both uses ak bedrooms, someone one as the kitchen.

Two rooms and vestibule

With a frozen small pantry

Only tambour without pantry

Customs with toilet and shower

Not everyone agrees even at a construction site or dacha, even temporarily, to lead the Spartan lifestyle. Requires at least elementary amenities. Although, probably, it is better to build them separately.

How to build a toilet on the street read here, and how to make a summer shower - in this article.

Article on the topic: How to install LED ribbon in the kitchen

San block is located with the edge - a more wise decision, especially if you make a separate entrance

With toilet

By choosing a drawing, do not forget when developing a frame for the scene, that at the place of the walls of the walls necessarily put racks. If the doors are attached to the racks, they must be reinforced - dual.

Foundation for housekeeping

Since the structure is temporary and lung, the foundation usually serve as columns or blocks. More often - blocks. Preferably - concrete, standard. No - you can any construction, but high density and not hollow.

EXAMPLE OF THE BACK FOR THE FOUNDATION FOR DOWERS

They are put on the prepared grounds. If the soils are normal, you can simply remove the turf and align the platforms. For greater reliability, they dig a small pit for each block of a depth of about 20-25 cm. It is covered with a crushed stone of the middle faction and the trambet is well. Blocks are exhibited on such a substrate.

Note! The upper edge must be set to level (be in one horizontal plane). It is also necessary to check the foundation geometry: the corners strictly at 90 °, the diagonals are equal.

With the width of the cabins, no more than 2.5 m and use in for a frame of a wooden bar, block blocks in each corner, as well as under those places where partitions are departed. If the building is without partitions, the setting step - every 1.5-2 m - depends on the cross section of the bar and the planned trim, as well as the weight of the roofing material. With a width of 3 m or more, an intermediate bar is required, and the basis for it. In this case, three rows of blocks are obtained.

An example of a foundation for the country's dacha for a three-meter width

So that in the premises did not pull dampness, waterproofing is placed on the blocks. You can - two layers of rubberoid, it is possible - other waterproofing material, even films. Another option is to mark with bitumen mastics. This can be considered the foundation ready.

Step-by-step instructions: photo reports with explanations

Understand some things in description difficult. How much do not read, but until you do, or at least do not look at how others do, you will not understand. That is why the photo of the construction of cabins are helpful: you can consider how the nodes did and find a solution for ourselves. This is a kind of allowance for those who decided to build on their own.

Construction of wooden hotel

There was a lot of wood from wood at the cottage. Dimensions 3 * 6 m, warmed - for temporary accommodation for the construction period at home. Used the following materials:

Board 50 * 100 mm - 28 pcs;
Bar 100 * 150 mm - 5 pcs and 50 * 50 mm - 24pcs;
blocks 20 * 40 * 20 mm - 20 pcs;
Boards on the roof of 25 * 150 mm - 10 pieces;
Flooring board White 30 mm thick - 21 pcs;
Lining class A 5 packs 6 meters and 6 packs of 3 meters;
Ruberoid 4 rolls;
Polyfoam - 4 cube;
windows 90 * 90 cm - 2 pcs;
doors;
Sezheng ultra - 10 l;
Corners and plates to enhance the junction of the strapping;
Fasteners (nails, selflessness, finish nails), mounting foam.

So look the materials on the site

Since the prices for materials are very dependent on the region, there is no point in talking about the cost of construction. But on this list you yourself can determine with quite great accuracy, how much is the lots built with your own hands.

Please note that there is no roofing material in this list (Ontulin planned) and there is no glass. Also not purchased lining for interior decoration.

Before the construction of all the wood, with the exception of the lining, was treated with antibacterial impregnation "Sezheng Ultra". Covered in two layers. So the processing quality should be normal.

Wood processing

Put the platform under the structure. We decided to put the blocks on the sandy submet. Pile of pits of centimeters 25-30 dug, poured sand, rammed. Exposed blocks. At first they put two extremes, put the board smooth on them, on it - level. So put extreme blocks. Then under height of the board were customized intermediate. So on all parties.

Exhibiting blocks

Next laid the strapping. Bar 100 * 150, washed down to Poledev. Moved for reliability pulled by studs.

That's how they cut in Polterev

And this is how to put the middle bar

Checking the corners and diagonals shot down with studs

The next stage was laid in gender lags. They were put in 50 cm, through one we will put and racks. Delivered from the board 50 * 100 mm set on a narrow part.

Put lagows were laid

We decided to collect racks with rafters immediately on Earth, strengthen the connections to the corners, and then install it in the finished form. Collected from the same board 50 * 100 mm.

Know the front rack - it is longer, rear and rafters

Beat nails, and the plates screwed up self-drawing

Racks fastened by temporary bodies

They knocked the racks with long nails. Then for reliability, all the place of attachment was reinforced with corners and plates. They were already sitting on the self-tapping screw.

On the sides of the lag, Bruks 50 * 50 mm. It turned out "nests" under the laying of foam. It was put on the mounting foam: and hermetically and reliable. From above, knocked the floor board.

Knocked the bar on both sides of the lag

Pastened foam

The floor was used on top

Next began the stitching stage. At first, they put additional racks on the sides, strengthened them with bodies.

Additional racks and dashes give greater stiffness to build

Now I went directly to the trim. On the short side, the lining from packs of 3 meters, six-meter nailed to long nailed.

Beginning of the trim

Having made the trim to half, the crate under the roofing coating. The board was nailed 25 * 150 mm in 30 cm increments, along the edges, step 20 cm (so that the Sve as it stand). Then continued to cover.

In places where windows will stand, put the mortgages - the board that lies across the rack. It will rely on the window frame. Bucked with nails, through, but additionally, the connections were reinforced by the corners.

Installed mortgages in places where windows are expected

When the rear and deaf side walls were sewn almost to the vertex, rubieroid rolled the roof. He will lie until you buy Ondulin.

The casing continues

Outdoor casing is almost ready. Doors bought without decoration - only frame, crumpled fiberboard

Beginning of door trim

While we finished navigating the wallboard outside, the work was also boiling - put the foam. The width of the sheet is 100 cm, the distance between the racks turned out 95 cm. We account for thin strips to cut off.

Between the racks put foam

So that it is not "rolling", we grab from thin corners from above, which is fastened, naturally, only to the rack bruis.

This looks like a foam room from the inside

Corners are visible at the top that hold foam

Started the skin inside, but the lining ended. While switched to painting outside. It turned out quite well, it seems.

So looks like painted household outside

I purchased the lining, finished the inner finish.

Inside also chopped

Bounded the manufacture of partitions. It was collected from the same boards - 50 * 150 mm. The locations of the joints are traditionally reinforced by the corners. Washed - clapboard.

Streams under the partition

Sheathed on one side

Began warming the roof. We used the same foam and the same technology - pinned with corners.

Warming ceiling is a lotovka

The joints with the insulation of the walls were repaired by mounting foam.

The joke with the insulation of the walls was propenyl

After you started the clapboard.

Beginning of the ceiling clapboard

Ceiling trimmed

We started laying roofing. Purplified Ondulin and laid it with a sharp one wave. Fucked in each wave with special hardware purchased with Ondulin.

Ontulin mount on the roof of gardening

Then they started bringing to the mind of the inner premises. The septum was also insulated with foam, they were listened with the second side with clapboard.

Almost sewed partition

Make a piece above the doorway

So simpleness looks in the final version

The lining inside is covered with water-based varnish. It gives only a slight tint in a little bit darker. Films on wood seems to be no. If you look straight, then it seems in general that the tree is not covered. Only if you look at the side at a certain angle, shine is visible.

It's already after painting

On the floor, varnish is already with a film: so that the wood does not grieve. Covered in two layers.

After starting the finishing of the sinks. They were sewn all the same clap. In general, working with the clap took the most time.

Close up of sink roofs

Almost finished in front

And this is a side view.

Metal frame for cabins

Metal was chosen as a basis as more reliable and durable. The very idea was played, that, perhaps, it will have to drag the former. If the frame will be made of metal, nothing threatens her.

This is something like such a lotment is going to build

The dimensions were determined based on the length of the busties of the corner: 11.7 m. The following dimensions were identified: 2.8 * 5.8 m, height - 2.5 m. The frame was welded from angle with a shelf 75 mm, 6 mm thick.

The foundation is made on the columns, cast on their own: the construction began in autumn, and nothing else can do nothing. So it was decided to pour reinforced columns: six pieces. At first, the plot was placed, after which the places for the foundation columns were determined.

Marking of the site and base under the columns

The holes are 50 * 50 cm, the total depth is about 30 cm. On the bottom of the crushed stone with a layer of about 10-15 cm and talked tightly. From above as much sand, also with a tuck. As a result, the subftip came out in one level with the soil.

Ruberoid is laid on the bottom, so that the moisture does not leave the concrete, and he "rushed" normally, and not dry. Next, the formwork is collected and fittings are laid in it.

So the formwork looks like a column and reinforcement

Dry plot, water goes fine, so there should be no problems. The welding was only mastered, so the reinforcement, or cooked, whether it is scrupted - it is not clear.

Before filling concrete

All the concrete is covered with a film: the end of October, and that concrete was a normal fortress, it needs to be caught.

Columns Ukutana

Frame frame was cooked for a long time - all winter: frost, workload at work, did not give to act with the necessary periodicity. The base from an angle of 75 mm, 6 mm thick, was allowed to increase 40 * 2 mm.

Start of the frame of the Metal Corner - Lower Vent

The side parts were cooked entirely, then with the help of 4 people put in a vertical position and so fixed. On the racks to which the frames of the windows and the door will be attached to the profiled pipe 40 * 40 * 2 mm.

Frames are going lying

The most inconvenient point is to measure the diagonal alone. They are constantly monitored, but to do one uncomfortable. But it is necessary to set everything, otherwise there will be a skew.

To give a greater rigidity, welded a metal strip in the corners. They received, dissolve the corner (40 mm). It was possible to buy a strip, but used cutting a corner.

Strips for rigidity in the corners of the frame

View "From the inside of the angle"

It was difficult when the frame was put: in the cold only in thick gloves, and it is difficult to hold in them hard. Therefore, they pinned with boards, and anything you can. But the angle was strictly kept.

The first contour is exhibited

To the frame there was a rigid fastening, welded metal plates angle.

Exposing the sidewalls of the frame, they were rigidly connected with a metal angle

The entire frame is gradually assembled.

Sidewalls raised and brewed

Reply plate at the corners: at the top and bottom

We weld a few beams above. Now the framework for the hotel is worth "Iron

Metal Corner Framework for Cell Ready Ready

Now the trim remains. It can be any: at least the same lining, a block house, at least an economy version - plywood and OSB. To mount the bleach to the corner it is more convenient to fasten the timber, and it is already attached to him and everything else. The same situation for the rafter system: on the perimeter is screwed into the screws with preliminary dialing the bar, it is fixed with rafters.