Lover constantly update their wardrobe interesting and classic things Our master class offers a lesson how to sew a chalk jacket.
It is worth noting that it is quite simple to implement this project, especially if you have already kept a needle in your hands with a thread, the main thing is to know some nuances of this particular model.
First of all, it should be used to fit the way to connect the main material with a gasket cloth. As a rule, for chasenel jackets, soft, well-dreamed, book-insulated wool is perfect. And products from such tissue from the reverse side are processed by a lining cloth, which is attached to the basis of machine stitches. As a result of this method of fixation, it is possible to achieve a special softness of the used lining.
At the cutout stage, the Muslin should be used for the basis for which the pattern is transferred to all parts. After the landing is indicated on the fabric, you can strive everything and smooth all the details, while the allowances can be trimmed. This process allows you to place parts from this material on the equity threads, and the paper pattern is no longer used. It is recommended to designate the direction of the filament on the patterns from Muslen.
Then the main material (bookped wool) is folded on the table in one layer, which contains all parts of the product, which before it was cut from Muslen. For the designation, the thread of a contrasting color is used, which each part is trimmed. Now the parts can be carved from the main material with the addition of five centimeters on the seams on each side.
The next step will be the process of quenching two layers of the product. In this case, external and lining, for which there are lines at a distance of two and a half centimeters from each other. The lining contain the invalid side to up, on top of it, all parts should be put on top of the main material, only the front side up. Mandatory align the share of the thread between two materials. Then, from the lining fabric, cut all the laid out parts, observing the same dimensions.
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After that, with the help of a special walking paw on a sewing machine, all parts at the selected distance can be transported. This process should be performed quite carefully, and the lines must be maximum smooth.
After you have stopped it, you should carefully fasten the threads between two seashed layers. The elongated ends of the threads should be fixed with the jeweler node and cut to one centimeter.
Please note that in this product, the seams on the seams are quite large, which is really necessary. This is due to a sufficiently loose knockout of the tissue itself (booklined wool), as well as this material gives a strong shrinkage during sewing.
The second most important stage in this work is numerous handmade, which begins with seams on the lining fabric.
It should be borne in mind that using a manual sewing, you can sufficiently control the behavior and fixation of how many tissues to which almost all lining include. Thus, it is recommended to manually sew all parts of the product, acting carefully and not assigate parts from the lining fabric. That is, sewing follows the parts only from the main fabric according to the planned lines of the seams. Then you can use again a sewing machine walking paw for long stitches. Recommended before starting this work, unscrewed the lining parts using sewing pins.
After the details of the jacket are collected together, it can be done to eliminate various nuances. Only after the products can sit perfectly, you can flash all the seams by the usual line, after which the strategies can be removed.
Next, make letters on the seams, which should be cut as much as possible (do not forget that the book-containing fabric is sufficient) and it is good to smooth them.
Now we combine the lining part of the jacket and the main one, following the seam lines to be combined. In no case do not pull the tissue, and gradually fasten them with each other with a pin. Starting, and then ending to fasten the lining is necessary at a distance of five centimeters from the bottom of the jacket and at least two and a half centimeters from the seam.
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After the lining with the base is fixed throughout the area, the upper layer of the lining fabric should be adjusted along a predetermined line. The stuck edge is then fed. For convenience, you can pre-stroke a stroken edge to designate a clear seam line.
The next step will be the stitching of the sleeve in the armor for which it is best to do this manually, and then finish the design of the neck and the center of the shelf. For the convenience of stitching the sleeves, a mannequin can be used if it is. It is necessary to clearly follow the direction of the equity thread, which must necessarily coincide in two layers of jacket. Now you can start strengthening the line of the neck and the center of the shelf, after which the extra allowances and the product is turned off in such a way that the allowances remain inside the shelves. It is recommended to fix the lining to the mainstock.
It should be noted that Coco Chanel always used jackets with different jewels and decorative buttons.
In our case, chains on the bottom of the product will be used to give the necessary weight. The chain is sewn manually, following it to not be strongly stretched.
An additional decor of our book-contained jacket will be the finishing braid in the form of a pigtail, which is fixed along the edge of the gate and the front shelter. In addition, the decorative braid decorates the bottom of the product and the bottom of the sleeves.
The jacket provides for the presence of four patch pockets, which are pairwise on each other are located on both front shelves of the product.
Please note that your pockets should be separated before they are inserted to jacket. On the upper edge of the pocket there is a tape, and in the center - a button.
