Survive the summer heat and stool helps climate technique and in particular split systems that are called air conditioners according to habit. Technique is not cheap, but worst everything is required to pay the amount a little smaller than for the equipment. Therefore, many are thinking about independent installation. The installation of the air conditioner is possible, but there are many little things and features, non-burning of which leads to a rapid wear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instructions will help you do everything right.
Installing the air conditioner with your own hands save a decent amount
Choosing a place
Installing the air conditioner with their own hands begins with the definition of the location of the equipment. Since the split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a place for both. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account how the cold air will be distributed in the house or apartment, as well as take into account the technical requirements.
Let's start with technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we consider such requirements:
- from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (some manufacturers at least 20-30 cm);
- up to the wall on the side - at least 30 cm;
- Before the obstacle that the flow of cold air will be broken - at least 150 cm.
Common options for installing air conditioners
The outer block usually put usually near the window or on the open balcony if it is. On the glazed balcony / loggia is possible on the fence (if it has sufficient carrier) or near the wall. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, the outer block is trying to put the windows level above - away from passersby. At higher floors can be placed under the window or side.
If the installation of the air conditioner is planned in a private house, it is usually selected based on the bearing ability of the walls. If there is a ventilated facade, you can apply a special mounting or hanging the block to the base, if it is.
When choosing a location of the split-system blocks, it is also necessary to remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is normalized. Specific figures depend on the manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance may be 1.5 m, 2.5 m (different models of Daikin) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). Some manufacturers have a minimum length not regulate, that is, anyone. In this case, you can set the "Back to Back" blocks. Installers This way of installation is called "sandwich".
The installation of the air conditioner begins with his own hands from choosing its location
Slightly easier, the situation with the maximum distance between two blocks. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refueling of the Freon system will be required, and this is additional costs, and considerable. Therefore, try to invest in the required 6 meters.
What will be required for self-installation
You are probably aware of how much the installation of the air conditioner is expert. If you come from where such prices, after all, work is only 3 hours, they respond that the equipment and its depreciation is a significant share of the cost. Perhaps this is the case, but most of this equipment can already be in the farm. An exception is a vacuum pump, but many brigades do without it, since it is worth a normal really much, but from a bad any sense.
When installing, it is important to observe the horizontal installation of blocks. For this you need a good building level
Equipment
So, to install the air conditioner with your own hands you will need the following equipment:
- The perforator to make a hole in the outer wall in which communications connecting the internal and outdoor blocks.
- Drill to install fasteners with a set of drills of different diameter.
- The pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes and the Rimmer to remove the burr (you can do with a file / natphil and sandpaper).
- Deviller for copper pipes.
Truck Rolling Device
For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually take him nowhere and on the tracks up to 6 meters it is cost without it.
Materials
For connecting and installing two blocks of split systems, the following consumables will be needed:
- Cable for power connection and for connecting blocks. The brand and cable parameters depend on the manufacturers and are usually indicated in the passport in the installation instructions. This is usually a 4-wire cable with a cross section of 2 mm2 or 2.5 mm2. The cable length is equal to the length of the track with a slight margin.
- Copper thick-walled seamless pipes (not water supply, but special for cooling and air conditioning systems). Pipes will be required two diameters - more and smaller. Specific figures will be indicated in the manual, the length of each segment is equal to the length of the track plus 20-30 cm on the reserve. Once again, we draw attention to that copper pipes are not water, but for the refrigeration industry. In them, the other copper is softer, which is well embarrassed and can provide the required tightness. It is necessary to transport and store copper tubes with shredded edges - to exclude dust to exclude. It is very important.
Copper pipes need special, with thick wall, seamless of soft copper
- Heater for pipes from technical rubber. There is dark gray or black. Color on quality is not reflected, comes in segments two meters. The required length is equal to the length of the route. We need a heater under both pipe diameters - greater and smaller.
- Drainage tube. Specialists advise to put a special corrugated hose with a plastic spiral inside. When independent installation, it is often replaced by a polypropylene pipe. Length of the drainage tube - the length of the track plus 80 cm.
- Two L-shaped bracket for fastening the outer block. Their size must correspond to block dimensions, and the carrying capacity should exceed its mass in 4-5 times. This stock is necessary to compensate for wind and snow loads. It is desirable to buy them in firms selling accessories for air conditioners. Conventional brackets may be unreliable.
Brackets for air conditioners must withstand a large load - 3-4 times higher than the mass of the outdoor unit
- Bolts, anchor, dowel. Type, dimensions and quantities depend on the type of brackets and the mounting plate for the indoor unit, as well as from the type of walls on which the air conditioner is mounted.
- Plastic box 60 * 80 cm - In order to close the laid communications.
It's all that is necessary to install the air conditioner with your own hands.
Order of installation and features
In an independent installation of the split system, there is nothing over-complex, but there is a mass of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, it is worth carefully reading the installation and operation instructions that comes with the equipment. The time spent compensate for what you will know exactly what and how to do it with your air conditioning, because there are some nuances.
To hang up the inner block was easier, until the installation starts, practice cling it on the plate
Start - Mount the blocks
Before the start of all works, it is worth searching in the estimated place of installation hidden wiring or heating pipes. Get into them when working - it is very sad. Next is the actual installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. It is necessary to start with the installation of the indoor unit. At the selected place, placing the plate for its attachment. The block should hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviations. Therefore, they approach the markup and fastening carefully.
Apply the plate, exhibit it in terms of the level, mark the place for fasteners. Drills holes, insert plastic plugs under a dowel, hang the plate and fasten the dowels. Especially carefully secure the lower part of the plate - there are latches that hold the block, because they should be rigidly fixed. No backlash. Then check the horizontality again.
Drills a hole under the track for installation of the air conditioner with your own hands
After catching, where the track will be located (it should go under the tilt at least 1 cm per meter - for normal drainage laying), start drilling a hole in the outer wall. The hole also drills with a bias - again to normal condensate (the angle can be more than the track).
The minimum hole diameter is 5 cm. If there is no bore of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, output not a common bunch of communications, but separately each tube / cable. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for copper and an electrocabyl, the second for a drainage tube. It must be stacked below the rest - in order not to be crushed into communications in an emergency.
If two "back to back" block is mounted, the hole must be strictly outled (measure on your own block where the connections are locked)
Then install the brackets for the outer block. If we are talking about a high-rise building, climbing equipment and work skills will be required. This unit should also hang strictly horizontally, so when laying holes also use the level. When installing brackets, fasteners are installed in each hole, no matter how much them is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners - anchor 10 * 100 mm. More you can, less extremely undesirable.
Sometimes without promalps can not do
After the brackets are fixed, exhibit an outdoor unit. I fix the block, too, in all attachments that are. Only so can ensure that it will stand in place under any conditions.
Laying Communications
Two blocks connect the electrical wire, two copper tubes. Also, a drainage tube is displayed through the wall. All these communications must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.
So the connected outdoor block looks like.
Copper tubes
We start with copper pipes. One larger diameter, the other smaller. Dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. Cut off the pipe cutting a piece of the desired length, process the edges from the burr a special tool to reprole and leveling the cut. Use the usual saw is undesirable, like a file for removing a burr - inside the pipe will necessarily be powdered, which will fall into the system and quickly destroy the compressor.
The prepared pipes wear heat-insulating tubes. Moreover, thermal insulation should be solid and passed inside the wall including. The joints of the thermal insulation pieces are definitely sampled by a metallized scotch, achieving very dense adjacent to the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensate will be formed on the tapered portions, and it can be drained inside the wall, causing frozen driving, destroying the wall.
The heat insulation is worn on the copper tubes, they are joined very tightly and samples with metallized (aluminum) scotch
Copper tubes wrapped in thermal insulation must be carried out through a hole in the wall. Before that, it is necessary to be the edge that will be introduced into the wall, carefully close the dust in the pipe (and it is better to drown out reliably both end immediately after cutting and leave the plug before the connection starts). This is a very important point, since dust will quickly dissemble the compressor.
Cable and drainage
It is easier to deal with an electrical cable. Each wire is obsessed with special tips by installing them on the conductor cleaned from insulation and crimping the ticks. The prepared cable is connected according to the scheme that is in the instructions.
On the inner and outer block above the ports for connecting copper pipes there is a removable plate under which connectors for connecting the cable. Before starting an independent installation of split system, remove the plates, consider what and where it will be necessary to connect - it will be easier to work. Especially with the external block.
This looks like a port for connecting an electrical cable.
Connecting the drainage tube is generally simple: it is connected to the appropriate output on the inner block and removed through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it end up at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. Laying the drainage tube must be performed with a bias towards the exit to the street. The slope of at least 1 cm per meter is long. You can no longer less.
The tube must be recorded through each meter so that there are no savings in it. Condensate is then accumulated in them, which can be on your floor or on the furniture. When you spend the tube through the hole in the wall, it is also better to drown something.
What the road looks like from the side of the street (tubes are insulated and in the wall too)
In the room usually pipes and cables are wrapped with a metallized tape into a single harness. Then they fix the wall in several places, the plastic box is fixed. Usually it takes white or suitable for color finishing.
If you wish, you can hide all tubes into the wall - to label the track in the wall, put there and after checking the performance to climb. But this is a pretty risky option, so to repair something need to disassemble the wall.
Connection blocks
Here, in general, there are no special secrets. Extended through the hole in the communication wall, connect to the appropriate connectors. With the connection of the cable there is no problems - to the terminals connect the wires of the same color that they are already connected. In this case, definitely not mistaken.
If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop for trapping the oil (put the copper pipes in this way) dissolved in Freon. If the difference is lower, no loops do.
Laying the tracks between the inner and outer block split system
Drainage
There are two ways to remove drainage from split system - in sewer or just outside, outside the window. The second method is more common, although it is not very correct.
This is a yield of the inner block drainage (at hand)
Connecting the drain tube is also simple. At the output of the drainage system of the indoor unit (tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit), the corrugated hose is easily stretched. So that it holds securely, tighten the connection with a clamp.
The same is the case with the drainage of the outdoor unit. Finding it at the bottom. Often leave everything as it is, and water drips just down, but it is better, probably also to wear a drainage hose and take moisture from the walls.
Drainage of outdoor block
If it is used not hose, but a polymer pipe, you will need to choose an adapter that allows you to connect the air conditioner output and the tube. Watch will have to be on the spot, because there are different situations.
When laying a drainage tube, it is better to avoid sharp turns and it is definitely possible to allow savings - condensate will accumulate in these places, which is not good. As they have already spoken, the tube is laid out with a slope. Optimal - 3 mm per meter, minimum - 1 mm per meter. Throughout it is fixed to the wall at least every meter.
Freon circulation system
Somewhat more complicated with the connection of copper tubes. They are neatly, not allowing the beggars and the chances are laid out on the walls. For flexible, it is better to use pipe bender, but you can do the spring. In this case, also should avoid sharp turns, but in order not to pass the tube.
Ports on the outer block look like this. On the domestic same way.
From the beginning we connect the tube in the inner block. On it from ports twist nuts. As the nuts weaken the hissing is heard. It comes out nitrogen. This is normal - nitrogen rank, in the factory so that the insides are not oxidized. When the hiss stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, we put it on the tube, then begin to fad.
Rolling
First remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burr. If during the cutting section it became not round, use the calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in the store store. It is inserted into the pipe, scroll, leveling the cross section.
The edges of the tubes for 5 cm are thoroughly align, after the edge, they are unrolled in order to connect to the input / output of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correctness of the execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system should be hermetic. Then refueling the air conditioner will be needed not soon.
Rolling of copper pipes for installation of air conditioning
When the fadder, hold the pipe down. Again, so that the particles of copper do not get inside, and fell on the floor. In the holder it is clamping so that 2 mm is broken. That is how no more nor less. We clamp the tube, put the roller cone, spin, applying solid efforts (thick-walled tube). The ruin is completed when the cone does not go further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with another tube.
Here such should be the result
If before you do not rolling pipes, it is better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge must turn out even, with a clear continuous border.
Connection with port
The collapsed edge of the pipe connect with the corresponding output, tighten the nut. No additional gaskets, sealants and the like to use should not be used (forbidden). In order to take special tubes from high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional funds.
Copper tube connection principle with air conditioner port
It is necessary to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case the copper is split, it will make a fitting, the connection will become almost monolithic and precisely hermetically.
The same operation is repeated with all four outlets.
Wakuuming - for what and how to do
The last stage ending the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is the removal of air and moisture, argon residues from the system. When mounting, the wet air out of the room or from the street fills copper tubes. If you do not delete it, it will enter the system. As a result, the compressor will work with a larger load, will warm more.
To look a trace carefully, it can be kept aluminum scotch
The presence of moisture also negatively affects the system performance. The fact is that the freon, which is filled with air conditioners, contains some amount of oil for lubricating elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but bypassing with water, it is less efficiently lubricating insides, and this leads to their premature wear.
From all this it follows that without removal of air, the system will work, but not very long and with possible overheating (if there is such automation).
You can remove air from the system in two ways: with the help of a vacuum pump or a certain amount of freon released from the outer block (it is refilled at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).
Method "PSHIKA"
On the ports of the external block, we unscrew the plugs of the valves (in the photo they are indicated by arrows).
We unscrew the lids of the valve
Operations will be carried out with the bottom port (larger diameter), which sticks to perpendicular to the case. Under the lid is a hexagon connector, we select the right key in size.
Under the lid there is a valve with a hex jack
Further, by this key, for one second turn the valve for 90 °, return to the previous position. We let in the system a little freon, there was an overpressure. Press your finger to the spool, which is located on the same port. By this, we produce a mixture of freon and gases there. Press literally for seconds. The mixture must remain so as not to run a new air portion inside.
You can repeat 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can rotate the valve located above. When the track is 2-3 meters - you can 3 times, with a length of 4 meters - only two. Not enough for greater stocks of Freon.
When the air is almost deleted, you screw the plug, control valves (under the hex) open, running freon into the system to exit a spool (refill). All connectors to the soapy foam to make sure they are sealed. You can run.
Vacuum pump
For this operation, a vacuum pump is needed, a high pressure tube, a group of two pressure gauges - high and low pressure.
Without opening the valves on the control valves, connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool, turn on the equipment. It should work 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, couples, nitrogen remains are pulled out.
Then the pump is disconnected, the pump valve is closed, but do not disconnect and leave for another 15-20 minutes. All this time must be observed for testimony of pressure gauges. If the system is sealed, no pressure changes, the arrows of the pressure gauges froze in place. If the arrows change their position - somewhere there is a leakage and need to be eliminated. You can find it with a soap foam and tighten the compound (usually the problem is in the location of the copper tubes to the outputs of the blocks).
Wakuuming air conditioner using a pump
If everything is fine without disconnecting the pump hose, we fully open the valve that is at the bottom. Inside the system, some sounds are heard - Freon fills the system. Now in gloves quickly surround the hose of the vacuum pump - some amount of ice freon can escape from the valve, and it is frostbite to do anything. Now unscrew the valve at the top (where a thinner tube is connected).
Why in that order? Because when filling in Freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly locks the filling port when disconnecting the pump. That's all, the installation of the air conditioner is completed with your own hands, you can turn on.
For the sake of fair to say that such an operation is vacuuming - conducts only in Russia and the nearest countries. In the same israel, where air conditioners work all year round, nothing like this. Why - a question for reflection.
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