For the storage of harvest, the cellar and underground are best suited. But underground can not be done in every home, but to make the cellar can even be on a plot with a high level of groundwater. It is important to know where and how.
The cellar on the plot may be element of decor
Choose a seat under the cellar
The optimal place under the cellar is on natural or manual elevation. If there are no drops on the site, it is necessary to find the most "dry" section with a low groundwater location. You can decide on vegetation - where it is the lowest, there is water there.
Ideal if you have a geological study of the site (ordered when planning at home). There are sufficient accuracy of the occurrence of aquifer. If there is no such study, the approximate level of groundwater can be determined by what depth in the wells is a water mirror.
The best place where you can make a cellar - on natural elevation
Another option - in the estimated place to drill a well depth of about 2.5 meters. If there is no water in it, you can make a cellar, blurred by 2 meters or a little more. It is necessary to boot or in the spring, after the snow is saved, or in the fall after heavy rains. At this time, the highest level of groundwater and surprises in the form of flooding you will not have to be afraid.
According to the results of studies are determined with the type of cellar:
- If the groundwater level is below 1.5 meters from the surface, you can make a swelled cellar.
- If the water at the level of 80 cm can be made half-breed.
- The ground cellar is rather a vegetable store. Requires a large amount of work and is rarely made in private economy.
There is another kind of cellar - an underground that is arranged under the house if there is a fairly high base (1.5 meters above). Then dig a small veil size somewhere 2 * 2 meters, deepening no more than a meter. At the bottom, with an approach to the walls of the pit, laid waterproofing, gravel poured (10-15 cm), wealing the boarded floor. If the water is already close, it is better to pour a concrete slab according to standard technology.
Shut down slightly in the ground, you can make an underground for storing conservation and vegetables
The walls are laying out brick or make a log house from a soaked timber, well insulated outside. The cellar cover under the house is made below the floor level, they also warm. In the floor suite a lid a little more sized. This is completed on this construction. This type of cellar makes sense only in the home of permanent residence - it will always be a positive temperature. In the houses of seasonal stay without heating in the winter it will be freezing, so it does not have any meaning to cost such a cellar.
Materials
The choice of material for the cellar also depends on the level of groundwater. In a dry place, you can build from what you want - any material suitable for these purposes: impregnated wood, brick, concrete, building blocks.
You can make a cellar from concrete on any soil
If the water is close to the surface, it is necessary that the material is not afraid of moisture, had low hygroscopicity (preferably close to zero) or it was possible to significantly reduce it. But these requirements are responsible, in general, only concrete and metal. Concrete is preferable - it is definitely not afraid of wets, does not very much water absorbing, although the capillars can conduct it. Concrete is good because there are various ways to make it practically impermeable to water in any of her form:
- Additives - Additives that give concrete specific properties. Including there are additives that make it practically not conductive and not absorbing water.
- Reduced hygroscopicity can be mixed with concrete when laying (there are special vibrators for concrete). Due to the sealing structure, its density becomes much higher, hygroscopicity decreases.
- Processing of impregnation of deep penetration. For concrete, cement-based formulations are used in which polymers are included. Polymers block capillaries for which water seeps. Two processing allows 6-8 cuts to reduce the amount of leakage through the moisture concrete.
- Rubber paint. It is used for pools, but in the extreme case can help prevent moisture into the cellar.
Article on the topic: Fastening of the cornice for Roman Curtain: Step-by-step instruction
All of these funds in the complex or one or two to choose from, will help to make the cellar dry not even sections with a high level of groundwater.
Also build a cellar in high groundwater can be made of metal. Press the desired sealant box, to the bottom and walls weld the struts. This metal box is treated outside the anti-corrosion composition (several times) and bury in the ground. If the seams are made qualitatively, the water will not be leaving, but there is another problem - with a large amount of water, this box can be pushed to the surface. That this does not happen, and weld the struts, but they only help to a certain pressure generated by water. It may well happen that such a cellar will pop up.
Metal cellar will not leak, but can "pop up"
During the construction of the cellar at a high level of groundwater, a ceramic brick is still applied. But over time, he crumble himself, although it is possible to reduce its hygroscopicity at times - to process several times the same impregnation of deep penetration. And yet brick at high water is only an extreme option.
How to make a cellar of concrete with mobile formwork
Standard concrete cellar construction technology is described many times. It's not very good, because you need a large amount of material on the formwork device, and the digging of the pit does not please - it should be much more than the gabaris of the cellar, so that it is possible to install this formwork. There is a more rational technology - with a concrete knife and phased fill of the walls. Such tactics are used in the construction of wells, but you can apply for the cellar device.
Formed a knife for a concrete well
Fill knife
It all starts with the fill of the knife. His profile is presented in the picture. In the figure, it is drawn round - under the well, but the cellar is better to do rectangular. This concrete knife is poured right in place. So, the swarm of a small pit on the perimeter of the future cellar. In the section, it should be triangular in the cross section, with a spoke, directed inside the perimeter (as in the photo above).
At the perimeter of the future cellar, the digging of the pit, which in the context has a triangular shape
The same form knit the frame from the reinforcement. In this case, fiberglass fittings were used - it is cheaper, it is easier to deliver it. For overlapping and gender will be used steel.
Knife
Making a frame, we leave reinforcement releases at 15-20 cm long, directed upwards to them will be attached to the next reinforcement belt. The frame is installed in the finished pit, covered with a film. It is necessary that the walls of the knife are smooth and the soil passed well.
Drive up with film
Concrete is done in the concrete mixer - the small volumes needed for one fill do not allow ordering at the factory. Concrete Make Mark M 250 (on 1 part of cement M 500 requires 1.9 parts of sand and 3.1 parts of rubble, water - 0.75). To increase the strength, polypropylene fiber is added, and penetron-admin (additive for greater strength) is dissolved in water.
Concrete poured
Concrete is placed, as it will be processed by a vibrator. Filled the parties in stages, immediately treating the immersion vibrator.
Split knife
Making walls
Next, the concrete was covered with a film, periodically moistened. While he grabbed, collected formwork. The cutting board 40 * 150 * 6000 mm passed the plane, knocked down the formwork shields of four boards. In height, they turned out about 80 cm. When assembling the board, it was knitted tightly so that the solution smalleled less.
Display shields
Wait until concrete gains design strength (more than a month has passed since the fill). To make a cellar for this technology, the knife should be durable. To those left earlier, the release of the reinforcement was tied the framework of the next row. At the same time, we also leave the issues of about 15-20 cm on the "binding" of the next belt.
Tied the carcass
To increase the rigidity of the carcass, the angles are reinforced bent in the form of the letter "r" with a metal strut (the length of the side is 40 cm).
Enhance the angles of metal reinforcement
We put formwork shields. So that they do not fall apart when pouring concrete, inside and outside are fastened with corners. Inside, 4 corners are supplied (on the self-tapping screw), outside - by 2. The distance between the two shields is fixed with the help of studs (in the photo below they are visible).
Article on the topic: Replacing the windowsill do it yourself
Strengthening the corners of the formwork
So that the cellar walls were smooth and the water from concrete did not leave, the inner surface of the formwork was pretty polyethylene. The surface of the first standing concrete should be cleaned of dust that has accumulated. We do it with the help of a high pressure washing (there is in the economy). Next, set the formwork, pour concrete, process the vibrator.
Beton filled into formwork
Purplified concrete cover with polyethylene, periodically water. After two or three days, you can remove the formwork. A few days later you can start the walls. For this inside the perimeter, we take out the soil. Digid evenly so that the walls sat down without distortion.
Fitting removed
For the first time the walls asked about 60 cm. This is the height of the walls of the wall (about 20 cm formwork overlaps the previous fill.
Next row of reinforcement
Further, according to the "rolled" technology - we bring the reinforcement, the corners are reinforcing, put the formwork. Only this time so that it is more convenient to put shields, inside, below the edge of about 15 cm, baked pieces of boards. They rest in the inner shield.
Inside the pieces of boards (the top of their edge is aligned into the horizon)
Then the outdoor shields are installed. They are "hanging" on the lower studs, which produced through both shields. The upper studs fix the desired wall width. Shields are pulled in the corners of metal corners.
Studs on which "hanging" shield
Next - fill, vibration, coop, wait. After a week-avenol, you can continue deepening. So we do, until the walls are a project height. In this case, it took 4 pouring of 60 cm each. The total height turned 2.4 m. I buried it so that the upper cut was slightly lower than the level of the soil.
The walls of the cellar fell to the desired depth
Those bottles that are put on the reinforcement are needed that the film covering concrete does not rush. The idea was very useful.
On the earth floor was raped geotextile. It will compensate for uneven loads. He also serves as a "rug - further work on his knees.
Stop
So that the walls do not seek further, the knife must be "stall." To do this, knit from the reinforcement frame, similar to the one that was done for the knife.
Related frame for "stop" knife
For its installation in a knife, drill holes in which they drive the reinforcement rods. They are tied by a bound framework, leaving the releases of reinforcement to communicate with the floor reinforcement.
Drinking pieces of fittings
We put a formwork, fill the "stop" concrete.
The former knife turned into anchor
Paul in concrete cellar
After grabbing concrete, the formwork disassemble, it's time to take the floor. First made the foundation. Sand poured on geotextile (about 10 cm), they crushed the shovel, then robbles, then a rink. Two buckets of cement scattered over the entire surface, stirred with robbles with the top layer of sand, again seal a rink. Shed from watering water with a dissolved additive penetron admi alex, tumbled a manual tamper. After tamping, the sand is not fitted under his feet.
First floor base layer
This operation was repeated two more times. The top layer turns onto the heap with the edge of the stopper. They gave preparation under the stove to dry. After drying, the crust is very durable.
The base was washed, dried. Locked the finished stack of wire 6 mm in 10 mm increments. The grid was tied up with knife reinforcement. She was put on the pieces of boards, which as the fills were cleaned.
Paul in cellar ready for fill
Of the two twine, stretched out of the corner in the corner, made beacons for the fill with concrete - the total height of the plate is 10 cm.
Concrete floor cellar ready
Overlapping and ventilation
We disassemble one shield of formworks, feed the docks, retreating from the top edge of the wall 40 mm - this is exactly the thickness of the boards. In one corner, we establish a meter pipe, fastened it with one clamp, in the opposite we put three meters on three clamps.
You feed the boards around the perimeter
Installing ventilation pipes
Three formwork shields are perfectly stacked on the attached boards. The rest disassemble, cutting up so far to enter the entrance. The gaps between the boards are embedded by mounting foam, after the polymerization of the surplus is cut into the floss with boards.
We form a formwork for filling the slab overlap
From the bottom, from the cellar, the struts are installed. At the top, they are fixed with the corners, bottom under the boards are laid trimming, so as not to be sold to the end of the ridden concrete.
Plugs for the slab slab cake
Downstairs installed lining
Article on the topic: Country houses: Great idea for garden house
On top of the board and wall washed with a sink of high pressure, sucked. Located with a layer of rubberoid, which was attached to the boards using a bracket from a construction stapler. The entrance to the cellar is selected in size 1 * 1 meter, its edges are limited to formwork boards.
Logging formwork installed
Next, the formwork is installed around the perimeter. Boards are fastened, tighten through the corners with long nails. Then turn the rubberoid, install the struts that rest in the stakes driven. The struts are needed powerful - the weight will crush a considerable one.
Fix formwork struts
We also do three strengthening beams - two lower rods 16 mm, two upper 14 mm, they are connected with each other 8 mm rod. Two beams were tied up, were presented to the place, tied them with the release of reinforcement from the walls. The third collected on the spot - her twigs pass through ready-made beams.
Ready armature frame
After from the reinforcement, 12 mm knit the grid in a step of 20 cm. The rods are tied to releases from the wall. Some difficulties have arisen when around the ventilation pipes. I had to bend the reinforcement. The rods that ended near the entrance, bended by 15-20 cm up. The reinforcement frame will then be tied to them.
Bypassing the ventilation pipe
In order to carry out electricity into the cellar, two holes are drilled, the wires in the corrugation were carried out through them. Next, poured all concrete.
Blood flooded slab
A few days later, when he grabbed, a formwork was installed above the entrance. First, the inner box, then the frame of the reinforcement, then the outer. Also bled concrete.
The process of installing the formwork for the entrance
After the concrete gained design strength (28 days from the pouring), the wall is half meter down and the slab of the ceiling was trimmed with an EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam). Its "Sadili" on bituminous mastic - at the same time and waterproofing.
Crying cellar insulation
The backups inside are left for two months. Then almost all removed, leaving only a couple, just in case. The first harvest appeared in the cellar.
Until two backups remained
Now you know how to make a cellar from concrete with a phased fill of the walls. Time left a lot, but the costs turned out to be stretched in time.
How to make a cellar from concrete rings. See here.
Cellar at the cottage from the brick (under the Hozblock)
For the construction of a brick cellar, our country area is suitable for all 100% - groundwater below 3 meters, soils are dense, non-empty, so they dug a drop of 2.5 meters deep. The sizes of the cellar 2.2 * 3.5 m, buttons, respectively, a little more. The entrance to the cellar will be from the observation pit, and the Hozblok (metal container) will be installed above all "complex". To save bricks taken used.
The floor did as old people advised: crushed stone and broken bricks were poured on the bottom of the layers, all this shielded clay and rubbed. Aligned the floor, embreasing the sand, it was also rammed, pre-mocked. Next began to lay the walls in the Pollipich. The soil is non-empty, so it is not necessary to worry about the walls.
Laying of brick cellar walls
The rest between the brick and the wall of the gap is covered with clay, which is also well trambling - protection against the rigor, which will search where to leak.
The walls were kicked out a little higher than the level of the soil, the edged board was installed on them. Hells tightly - it will be a formwork for the slab overlap of the cellar. From the bottom of the board was restored to the struts, the film was used on top - so that the concrete does not succeed in the existing gaps. Exposed flights from the boards, limiting the future slab. The boards in the corners brought the corner tie.
In the future overlap, in the opposite corners of the cellar, two plastic pipes are inserted. This is a ventilation system. The stove will be insulated - 5 cm EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam) was laid.
Formwork, insulation, reinforcement of the slab floating cellar
On top of the insulation from the reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm, a grid is associated with a step of 20 cm. The grid relies on the slices of bricks. It is raised above the EPPS by 4 cm, the total thickness of the plate is about 10 cm.
Concrete ordered at the factory - there is an entrance to the country. When the pouring is well shone.
The fill of concrete has begun
So the flooded slabs for the cellar looks like
While concrete "ripen", laid out the walls of the observation pit and the steps into it.
Yama is ready, they fall into the cellar
After removing the formwork, it will be possible to put metal hozblock from above.