Not everyone wants to build the walls of the cellar - this is long, and there is not always time. For storage of vegetables in small quantities, you can make a cellar of concrete rings. The largest diameter of similar products is 2 m and 2.5 m, here they can be used.
Vertical concrete rings cellar
If you find the rings with a diameter of 2.5 m for the vertical option, it will be very nice, and then the two-meter is closed after the shelves are installed. There are already ready-made plastic cellars, but the price of them is somewhat higher than that of homemade from reinforced concrete rings.
From concrete rings make something similar to this cellar
Before installing the rings, they are desirable to be treated with coating waterproofing. Even if the groundwater is low, in the rain or during the melting of snow, concrete will be cooked, the humidity in the cellar will be raised. To avoid this, it can be treated with bitumen mastic melted by tar, impregnation of deep penetration of the Penetron type or any suitable composition suitable according to the properties.
Bullen
The method of building a vertical cellar from concrete rings is uncomplicated: dig a cylindrical pit of a suitable size. You can immediately at all depth (this is about 2.5 meters), then install the rings using a loader or friends, ropes and winches on a tripod.
Dig a hole under the well
The second option is to use the technology that is used when the device of the wells is to remove the ground inside the ring, gradually deepening. The ring at the same time will descend. For wells, it is already buried at 8-10 rings, for the cellast you will need a maximum of two or three (depending on the height).
The number of rings - depending on your desire, but the height is better to gain such so that it can be inside to stand in full growth. At the same time, add at least 15-20 cm on the flooring of the floor, and 10 cm to be at least a minimum gap over the head. The height of the rings can be different - it is 40 cm, 60 cm, 80 cm and 1 m. Of these, the height is gaining the necessary.
When buying a GBB rings for a cellar, see that they have a lock - protector and deepening on the ends. These locks make the design more stable, it is easier to seal.
Rings installed
Before installing, the ends of the lower rings are purified from dirt (brushed), apply a layer of cement-sandy solution. After that, put the second ring. After installing all, the seams and the technological holes are well missing again.
Loose seams with cement-sandy solution
The lid can be purchased ready - there are separate round plates with a hatch, but the hatch is round, and usually a small size - 70-80 cm. Not everyone can simply climb into it, and it will also be hard with the cargo. So this option is not for all.
If you need a square LAZ, the slab overlap (ceiling) of the cellar can be pulled out independently. For this, the framework is boiled from the corners, which will be convenient to lay formwork boards. Used Corner 40 * 40 * 4 mm. The formwork will be fixed - it will be the ceiling of the cellar - as in the photo. In this embodiment, pieces of a laminated chipboard with a thickness of 21 mm are used, a boards with a thickness of 35-40 mm are suitable.
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Make the cellar cover yourself
A mesh from a metal bar is stacked on the impotory formwork. Since the size of the concrete slab is small, the corner is a good shock absorber, you can take a rod 8-10 mm. From it to tie the reinforcing frame - step 15 cm.
Collect the reinforcing frame
Through the cover of the pipe for ventilation (in this case, it is one, since the volume is small), we bring the wires for lighting, which are stacked in the corrugated iron or into a piece of pipes, which are done in the hole formwork shield. Mortgages are well fastened.
The next step is to form a formwork for the slab of the cellar overlap. In the circumference, we exhibit flexible, but durable material. It is more convenient to use a metal strip 10 cm wide (thickness from 3 mm). The installed band must be well fixed (to fight the pins that drive into the ground), additionally around the bricks. Sut off the strip exactly - on the upper face, we will smooth the solution. From the boards, we make a formwork, enjoying the entrance to the cellar, after which we pour concrete Mark M 200 (this is a brand of concrete, do not confuse with cement).
Concrete usually makes themselves, this will require a good portland cement Mark M 400 (500). On 1 part of the cement, it takes 3 parts of the sand and 5 parts of the crushed stone of medium and fine fractions, water to the state of medium plasticity, but usually 0.6-0.75 from the cement volume.
After the concrete drops 50% of the design strength (at a temperature of + 20 ° C, there must be a week, with + 17 ° C - two), you can enter the input to the desired level, enhancing a brick lase.
Make a brick to make a LAZ
Read more about the waterproofing of the cellar cover. Double-wise slabs and walls of Laza with bitumen mastic. Now you can proceed to the arrangement of the cellar inside. First of all, you need to make the floor. It can be left earthen - this is if the groundwater level is low. In the ground rush a broken brick mixed with clay. All this is well trambed. It turns out a good floor.
The second option is to make a concrete floor. Pour and plump crushed stone, on it - a layer of sand, shed, tamper (10 cm), then put the film (so that the water does not go into the sand). On the film - the reinforcing grid and all pour concrete.
The third option - down to put the ring with the bottom. There are such. In this case, no problems with wetting at the bottom.
Ring with bottom - convenient when cellar device
Another point: if the groundwater is close, before installing the rings in the pittal, they should be covered twice with coating waterproofing. Most often used bitumen mastic. Also, it is also necessary to share the sealing of the joints. Then when buying a rings, look for with locks (as in the photo above). A slight cement solution is put on the lock of the lower ring when the upper ring becomes, the extruded solution is cleaned. After a few weeks, the seams can also be missed by bitumen mastic.
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For sections with a high level of groundwater
You can not always bury the cellar for 2.5 meters and not to meet water. In some areas, water is already at a depth of 60-80 cm. For such a case, you can make a cellar from concrete rings in fine-breed. To burn on that depth, on which there is still no water, and a part protruding over the soil to lay the heat-insulating material (the best EPPS for this) and fall asleep with a soil (make an embankment).
Device of the cellar from concrete rings at a high level of groundwater
In order to accurately take the water from the cellar, around you can make a sleeve from the rubble - to sprinkle at least 40 cm. From top to bottom, it is necessary to unwell the turny, which before backing the soil, you must neatly cut.
At such a device, the question arises: how to make the lid so that water does not succeed through it, cold did not flow, and so that it does not catch the eye. Exit - make a double lid. To do this, over the entrance is laying out edging from brick (option above) or monolithic concrete (in the photo below). At the same time, there are two covers - one light insulated (wooden, sheathed with EPPS, polystyrene foam), the second is metal with locks.
Edging of the entrance to the cellar of monolithic concrete
Another option is to make a small building above the entrance, like a barn or a shala. Not to say that it will be unnoticed, especially on the top of the hill, but will close the entrance from precipitation.
Not necessarily so, but you understood the idea
Some owners of such cellars arrange a flower garden on the embankment, an alpine slide, make a waterfall, then landing the plants around the entrance can be made practically invisible.
Everything is not bad, but this option has too many of the minuses: it is inconvenient to climb into such a cellar from concrete rings, the volume of work is large. In this case, it is better to consider the following option - vertical. The volume of work is approximately the same, and the comfort of use is much higher.
Horizontal (unheard)
There is another cellar of concrete rings - horizontal type. This is a small breed or overhead cellar. This design is suitable if the groundwater is very high. Dig a shallow pit (at least 50 cm deep, but can be deeper - how conditions allow).
How to make a cellar of concrete rings
In the pitchers make the foundation-slab (10 cm thick and size by 20-30 cm more than the dimensions of the future basement). 10-15 cm rubble poured on the compacted bent. Plug in layers, 5 cm at a time, each layer thoroughly tram. Then pour and tamper about 10 cm of sand. The film spreads on it, the formwork is set, it is the reinforcing frame (one belt from the reinforcement 10 mm in 20 cm increments). The center leaves the "landing place" under the rings laid on the side (make a layout of the lower part from plywood and boards and use it as a formwork). When concrete is captured, you can roll at the rings.
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The rear ring can be with the bottom - then the back of the back is not necessary. If the ring without the bottom, the wall is layered with bricks (in a half of the brick), without forgetting to bring the exhaust pipe for ventilation. Then the supply hole is made in the opposite wall near the door.
By connecting fragments with the help of construction brackets and embedding the joint solution, a virtually finished cellar is obtained. Mixed rings fall asleep with soil, forming a hill.
Overhead bulk cellar from concrete rings
Now everything left is to install the doors and lay the remaining gaps. They put metal corners or treated with impregnation (throughout) a wooden bar to which the doors are fixed. The remaining gaps are most convenient to lay a brick or tackle (natural stone on the solution). The front wall or should be insulated from the inside, or it is necessary to make it thick - this is the only outgoing wall.
Ventilation
In order for the supplies well stored, ventilation should be organized in the cellar. With active air movement, humidity inside is naturally adjusted. There are two ways to organize ventilation in the cellar:
- With two pipes located at different heights - supply and exhaust.
- With one pipe - the suppl by-exhaust.
Methods of ventilation cellar
In order for ventilation to function in normal mode, two pipes are needed - supply and exhaust. They are distributed at the opposite corners of the room, having diagonally. The supply tube begins at a distance of 40-50 cm from the cellar floor. It can be removed through the wall or up, to the roof level (lid). The exhaust pipe should delete as much effluent as possible, and therefore it begins almost under the ceiling - by 10-15 cm below. It is displayed strictly up, not less than a meter towering over the roof (lid). So that foliage does not fall into the pipes, they are tightened with a grid, umbrellas wear, on the exhaust pipe to improve the thrust you can put a deflector.
How does such ventilation work? Due to the temperature difference, pressure and due to the strength of the wind. In the cellar of the autumn-winter period, warmer than on the street. Plus, due to the fact that the exhaust pipe is raised above the roof, pressure drop is created. These reasons force the warm air from under the ceiling to strive up, along the pipe. A fresh air comes into place at the place of remote part of the air at the subtle tube in the cellar. This process at different speeds is constantly. Sometimes in the winter it is too active, you have to reduce the cross section of the ventilation pipes. To do this, you can put a damper on the type of gear or a furnace view, but usually come easier - it is closed with a pipe from above, some kind of plate, partially overlapping it.
In small sizes of cellar sites located on the hill, you can do with one pipe. In this case, the air alternately is pulled out, it comes.