On instruments and material
The need to change the level of the plumbing plant appears during the overhaul of the toilet, when changing the level of flooring, when purchasing a new toilet, when changing the place of installation of plumbing. At the same time, they increase or lower the location of the plumbing devices. In all cases, lifting the water supply to the drain tank does not cause big problems.
Changing the layout level of the toilet, is most often due to changes in the communications and sewage communications, which occur during repairs.
The incompatibility of the fittings is eliminated by the use of adapters. The incompression of the axes of pipelines is eliminated by using flexible hoses or gasket new pipes. The main thing is to comply with the cooality of the outlet nozzle of the toilet and the pipe of the sewer system. From the coincidence of the axes of these holes depends on the level of installation of the toilet. To achieve the alignment of nozzles, three main options are used:
- device of a new installation site with a change in the level of the reference site;
- use of suspension toilet;
- Use transitional pipes.
Every repair or reconstruction begins with clearing the place of work. It hinders almost everything, therefore all the extra, not related to the case items should be reached. It is best to work in an absolutely empty and clean room. For work, you will need the necessary materials and tools:
Tools for installation of toilet: wrench, hammer, chisel, screwdriver, knife, construction level, pencil or marker, water suction pear, sandpaper, bollard, sealant, nuts, washers, bolts, cement, peso.
- wrench;
- a hammer;
- chisel;
- screwdriver;
- knife;
- building level;
- pencil or marker;
- Pear for water suction;
- sandpaper;
- Bulgarian;
- sealant;
- nuts, washers, bolts;
- cement;
- sand.
Sequence of work
Disconnect the toilet to the water supply and sewage. To do this, it is necessary to overlap water and disconnect the water pipe from the drain tank on one side and from the water pipeline on the other. All the water remaining in the toilet must be removed with pear and rags. If water remains, it will definitely be poured when carrying. The toilet is usually fixed on a wooden stand or on the cement screed of the upper surface of the floor. The transition from the toilet to sewage is usually made of plastic pipe, plastic corrugation or rubber adapter. To disconnect from sewage, you must or pull the corrugation, or remove the nozzle. If the removal fails, then these parts are cut. Carefully turn away four bolts and the toilet is cleaned. If the bolts are not turned away or removal of the toilet can not be removed for other reasons, then you need to volatile the cement tie under the toilet with small portions and around it. This is done with the help of a hammer and chisel, you can also apply drilling.Article on the topic: Learn how I painted a chart with a newhermitage computer program
The inner surface of the sewer pipe is determined from the remains of the old seal.
For the period of repair and preparation of support surfaces, the sewage pipe is closed with a polyethylene film to prevent garbage from entering and entering the unpleasant odor.
The scheme of the structure of the standard toilet bowl.
All garbage and remnants of old fasteners are carefully removed and a place for a new installation is preparing.
A new place is selected and the location of sanitary devices. The toilet is temporarily installed on wooden cubes or skimming, the thickness of which will bring it to the required level. The horizontal surface of the toilet surface is checked by a building level. At the same time, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the sewer. The perfect option, if the axis of the sewer hole will coincide with the axis of the flush pipe of the toilet. If there are deviations, then for inclusion in the sewer, the transition nozzle is selected. The toilet is then removed and the thickness of the temporary wooden gaskets is measured. This magnitude determines the level of the new pedestal.
Plumbing fastening is made in various ways. High location can be changed by changing the base. As a base, you can use a wooden board. For this, the oak board is suitable. But wooden bases are short-lived. Due to high humidity in the room, the board is subjected to rotting. Another base option is the surface of a concrete tie of the floor, to which the mount is made by screws, screwed into plastic dowels. You can fix the toilet with epoxy glue. A good option when foam block is used as a base. You can cut it with a hacksaw. After selecting a piece of foam block of the desired thickness and check installation of the toilet bowl, the contact surface is driven by a marker. The toilet is removed and processed by the foam block on the resulting circuit. Foam block is strengthened on the floor with screws with dowels. After installing the toilet bowl on the foam block with bolts and epoxy glue, the base looks like a continuation of the housing.
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Final installation
Before you finally install the toilet, it needs to be connected to the drain tank. In order to make sure that the assembly is made correctly, you should fill the tank and hold in this state for at least an hour. Techs should not be. When installing the toilet bowl on the support surface of the hole under the screws with dowels is made at the place. The toilet is installed on the estimated place and the marker or pencil, the contours of the holes and the base are noted. Then the toilet is removed and the holes are drilled. When drilling the base from the ceramic tile, the drilling is first carried out in unpacking mode, and after the deepening, the tile thickness can be used by shock mode. The toilet is installed in place and screwed fastening screws or bolts. Screwing is carried out carefully due to the fragility of the material. Under bolt hats are led by rubber laying toilet bowls. It is better to harm it better than to drag. If the toilet is still fixed, then in the future pulling it is not necessary.
Connecting to the water supply is better to make flexible reinforced hoses with cape nuts. All connections need to be checked. If leakage from the drain tank has been discovered, then you need to check the correct location of the gaskets. If the toilet is risen, then slightly tighten the fasteners. If the dowels are not fixed, the installation will have to be re-updating the concrete tie. Stressing water in the toilet may be due to improving the level of installation of the toilet.
On the use of suspended toilet
The installation of the suspension toilet sets over the wall or in a special box.
To change the level of installation, it is best to apply suspended toilet. In order to raise higher or lower the design, two ways are applied:
- application of the installation system;
- Installation on the homemade base of concrete.
The installation system provides for the installation of the toilet in the special design in the form of a frame. The design allows after setting the frame in terms of the level and fixing the toilet to it very accurately raise the level of installation and the coaxialness of the drain pipe with the sewer pipe. After completing all the adjustments and checks, the installation system can be hidden by a plasterboard facade and choose any finish coating.
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For the construction of concrete base for the suspension toilet, you will need:
- two steel studs with M20 threads up to 800 mm;
- Nuts, washers;
- Screws on a tree;
- boards or plywood for formwork;
- Concrete solution.
The installation on the homemade base from concrete is starting with the installation of the coupling on the horizontal exhaust pipe of the toilet. The coupling is a transitional nozzle between the toilet and the sewer system. Then choose the installation site of the fastening spills. The studs can be installed in through holes in the wall, or if the openings of non-current, on glue for concrete. After the hairpins are installed, formwork is made for the construction of a concrete base.
The formwork consists of three walls: two side and facial. They can be built from plywood. Fasteners, which will be held in the further toilet, the formwork is attracted against the wall. The front wall is installed strictly by level.
After assembling the formwork, you need to install the toilet to check the correctness of the decrees. Then the toilet is removed and the clutch is covered with a polyethylene package to prevent the construction trash in the sewer. The clutch flange must be pressed to the front wall of the formwork from the inside. From the inside from above, a piece of foam is attached to the front wall. It will create a deepening in concrete through which the drain tank can be connected.
Formwork concreting should be made in small portions to prevent the coupling shift to drain from its position. To compact concrete, you can "write" wire, especially in the corners. After exposure time to set the concrete, that is, at least a week, the formwork is removed. The toilet is mounted on the fasteners of the concrete ends of studs. To connect the drain pipe toilet with the coupling, a segment of a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 80 mm long is used. All connections to the toilet bowl with sealing are compacted with silicone sealant. For the end of the polymerization reaction, the sealant needs a day. For the final coating of the concrete base, you can apply a tile or any other coating.
Raise higher or lower the most suitable toilet bowl. After installation, additional facilities for cleaning the room appear. The best way to install is an installation device, but it is the most expensive.