Installation of windows is a difficult procedure, which, however, does not require special equipment. With a clear observance of all rules with it, you can cope yourself. Let's look at how to carry out windows with your own hands.
How to make measurements for ordering windows
Absolute accuracy is important in measurements. If the design is less than the opening, you will have to fill out the void with a fading or increasing the slopes. It is possible that several years later, or even months near the window, cracked will appear, it will begin to deform and freeze in winter. Even more difficulties occur when the window design turns out to be more open.
But it is impossible to allow the frame to rest in the opening - thanks to the so-called mounting gap (from 2 to 4 cm), the design gets the opportunity to naturally expand.
The openings are with a "quarter" (that is, a quarter of a brick, serving on the outer part of the perimeter) and without it. The principles of measurement are different for them.
First we find out how to measure the usual window. Width counting formula: measuring the distance from below, in the middle and at the top of the opening, choose the smallest. From it we subtract the mounted gap. The stronger the curvature of the wall, the greater should be its size (2-4 cm).
The formula for counting the height: from the measurements to the right, on the left and on the center we take the smallest, we subtract 3 cm for the coaching profile and 1.5-2 cm for the assembly gap.
Operactions with a "quarter" require calculations more complicated.
Width counting formula: measuring the distance between the slopes outside, add 4-6 cm for the construction plant behind the protrusion. This value should not be more than the distance between the slopes in the room and the points of their adjoining to the frame.
Height counting formula: We measure the distance between the base and the upper slope, we subtract 1-2 cm from it to the mounting gap and 3 cm on the coaching profile (if it is in the design), then add 2 cm to enter the design for the ledge from above. This value should not exceed the distance from the bottom side of the window sill to the upper slope indoor.
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We measure the windowsill: to the width of the opening at the bottom of the window add 1-2 cm. The deeper the opening, the wider the windowsill. Of course, if there is an old one, we simply measure it.
Measure the squeeze. Length: Width of the opening Outside plus 6-8 cm. Width: the distance from the frame to the edge of the opening plus 3-5 cm.
Preparation for installation
Carry out valuable and fragile things from the room, especially the technique to accidentally do not hurt it when installing and do not score dust. Furniture and floor Cover the film.
We dismantle the old construction: getting rid of the low tide, windowsill, sash and platbands, cut the box from the bottom, turn the frame with the frame - first the bottom, then the middle and, finally, the upper one. We clean the opening: throwing out the old insulation, wash the dirt. If necessary, old nicknames are cutting into pieces of 5-6 cm - they will be window supports.
Correcting irregularities and chips on the quarters - the rapid construction mixture is best for this.
If you want to strengthen the outer waterproofing with the help of pips-ribbons, overhabit a quarter-plaster in advance so that it lies tightly.
Squares and cracks on slopes to cover with waterproof compositions and cover the primer. This will strengthen the protection against freezing and ensures the best grip with foam.
Installation step by step
Substrates (wooden or plastic) We put on the bottom end of the window opening. In the process of placing a frame in height, do not forget that you will need to insert the windowsill and bring the squeeze. In addition, there should be free space for foam. Corners of the mosquito network should not go for a quarter.
Together with the assistant, we set the window on the substrate and with the help of pegs fix the design on the sides. The pegs are closer to the upper edge so that the frame does not rush.
Water level (it is more accurate than popular bubble) check the horizontal structure. If necessary, add substrates. To check the horizontal level, it is recommended to use a plumb.
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Making sure that the design is smooth in all planes, begin to fix it with anchors.
Fixing
In some window structures on one or two sides, there are special metal plates for mounting with already finished holes.
In this case, the holder shoulder bending in the form of a step so that it is caught as close as possible by an eye to the wall, after which the hole in the wall for anchor is drilled. I fix the lower part, then the middle and, finally, the top. At each stage, check the levels.
You can fix the window through the frame. We prepare the holes in advance on it and drill the wall right through them. Then fix the bottom of the frame on both sides, but do not twist the anchor to the end. We check the vertical level again, then dried holes in the middle and upstairs. After inserting all the anchors, finally check the verticality and tighten the mounts (not too tight so that the frame does not cracked and not deformed).
Insert the squeeze into a special groove.
Now we throw the gaps. Do not squeeze a lot of foam - it expands and a lot of surplus can turn out. If necessary, we remove them with a solvent or later scraped a knife. Glue hydro-vapor insulation adhesive tape on the inside of the window around the perimeter (except for the bottom) - it will provide additional protection against fogging and freezing. We glue a vapor-permeable moisture-resistant strip on the outside of the window - it will not allow moisture from entering, but will take it from the inside.
When the foam gets dry, proceed to the finish assembly.
To put the sash, install its lower loop on the pins of a canopy, we close the sash and clog the hairpin of the upper loop (only with a rubber hammer).
If the window is deaf, we put the glass in the place in the frame and fix the top and the bottom first, then the side strokes. To snap them up to the stop, we gently tapping on them with a rubber hammer.
Now adjust the locking mechanism, install the handles and other accessories. Protective tape is not removed until all works are completed.
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Cut the windowsill around the edges so that it goes under the frame and rested into the lining profile. Level exhibit with pegs. The space under the window sill is either filling with a solution or we throw. Finally, with the help of self-sufficiency, we attach the windowsill to the frame by screwing them in the middle and on the edges from the inside of the frame.
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