Wooden floors as in appearance and in their environmental and thermal saving qualities are one of the best for installation in the apartment, house, srub, in a bath or in the bathroom. But unfortunately, over time, they can lose their original attractive look - appear slots in the wooden floor. This can be caused by a variety of factors.
To avoid the emergence of defects, it is necessary to control the process of laying such a floor from the very beginning - a concrete screed, which serves as the basis of the floor should dry well. Otherwise, evaporating moisture will be absorbed into the tree, which will lead to its deformation. The boards used in operation should be well dried, and the floor laying technology is respected to the smallest detail.
The low level of humidity in the room can also cause a dry drying, and even a seasonal increase in humidity to the required level in 40-60% will not return to the case, its original appearance.
The reason for the appearance of the gaps can be rodent.
Equally important and selection of wood for the floor. The most stable deformation is the oak, the "risk zone" can be attributed to the cherry, male, pear, beech.
But if sexual defects still appeared - do not despair, there are a lot of ways to combat this problem (from old, tested by the time of "grandfathers" methods to technologies using modern building mixtures and materials that will eliminate defects and cracks even in laminate). They all will help to return the wooden floor attractiveness, eliminate the flow of cold air, without resorting to expensive work on the coating smoke.
Shpalkes and mixtures for cracking
It is possible to close the gaps in a wooden floor in a house or a litter with a shtcloth, self-cooked from glue and sawdust. But before the start of restoration work, it is necessary to prepare the floor: to thoroughly wash and dry, the genital clearances clear from the garbage driving in them with a brush or spatula. The solution is pretty quite simple: wood sawdust poured boiling water leave for half an hour to swell. Then, constantly stirring, wallpaper glue is added to them until the mass becomes the weight.
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The gaze obtained is needed to carefully smear all the cracks in the house (Siruba), pressing it on the whole depth, and leave to dry for 3 days. After drying, all irregularities are easily cleaned with sandpaper.
Cutting mixture
No less effective is a tool at which paper and hubblers are used for putty. Grinding paper Soak water and leave to swell, then squeeze and mix with the hub. The gaps are close in the same way as in the first case, the shp can from sawdust and glue.
If the reason for the appearance of the gaps in the house or litter has become rodents, then some restoration work is not enough, it is also necessary to carry out "preventive" measures so that such holes do not appear again and again. Before the cosmetic restoration of the floor (applying the shta), it is necessary to pour holes with a mixture of concrete and broken glass.
Close up big gaps
But if sex cracks in a litter, for example, quite wide (from 5 mm and more), and their edges are uneven, it is better to strengthen the walking design with the help of rails:- To do this, it is necessary to pre-process the gaps between the boards using the milling installation and drive into them the shkes;
- From well-dried pine boards to prepare the rails of the desired size - they must be a little less than the width of the slit (for example, for a 6 mm gap, you must select a ray of 5.5 mm wide);
- Then carefully laughing the PVA glue not only racks, but also the edges of the very gap between the butts of the boards;
- We glue the ducts and rails into the holes, and the remaining fine cracks and the gaps are making their own prepared composition of PVA and sawdust and sawdust (the depletion of the shtlotka is brought to the consistency of sour cream) or the finished plaque mixture;
- We proceed to the "Beauty Guidance": Spin the floor with a grinder with sandpaper, and to align the color (incised rails will, as a rule, a more dark shade), process the floor with a mixture of simulane and varnish (the painting tape is glued along the board). For the maximum effect, the varnish with a verse is better to apply several layers.
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Sex defects in a litter or house (this method is suitable for any room, even for the bathroom) can be embedded and quite old, but a proven santi method. Instead of the rail, a synthetic rope of the corresponding thickness impregnated with PVA glue is used. The rope is clogged to half the height of the board in the gap, and the remaining emptiness pour the whole mixture of PVA glue and sawdust, a little bit "with a slide." The protruding glue after drying is easily cut by a conventional knife.
Wooden floor restoration in a bath or bathroom
When processing cracks and gaps in the bathroom or bath, it is necessary to more thoroughly process the seams to preserve the tightness of the floor. After repair work, it is necessary to open the treated surface with water-repellent paint or varnish, otherwise the increased humidity or water drops entering the bathroom in the bathroom are absorbed into the tree, which will lead to the re-deformation of the tree.
To close the sex gaps in the bathroom, it is recommended to use a plumbing pass. Wet in glue, it is pressed into the gaps and leave until complete drying. Small gaps or cracks can be treated with a special shplanyow for wooden surfaces (desirable possessing water-repellent and antifungal properties).
One of the most reliable methods for processing gaps and cracks in the wooden floor (this method is perfect for premises with high humidity - for a bathroom or bath) is considered the following: using epoxy resin. At first, a mixture of epoxide and a hardener is prepared, then cement interferes in it (in a ratio of 1: 1) to the consistency of sour cream. Processing the slots in the bathroom is necessary quickly until the solution is dry. Large clearances should be predetermined by packles or cord. It is necessary to pour the resulting mixture "with a slide" - it will settle as drying.
But whatever way you choose to process wooden floor in the bathroom or bath, do not forget about finishing: grinding and flooring with special varnishes or paint.
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Parpet update
Fully overlapping the cracked, deformed parquet - quite costly time and means an event. Therefore, the question arises than to close the cracks in the floor without carrying out large-scale repair work.
Initially, it is necessary to clean the parquet from the old varnish and dirt. The gaps in the floor are carefully cleaned with a brush with a metal bristle, the remains of the garbage are removed by a vacuum cleaner. Then you need to choose the proper tip of the shta. It depends on many factors: the type of wood coating, the size of the defects and the planned top coating (varnish, paint or oil).
Seeling cracks in the parquet
When you were determined with the putty, you can proceed to work. It is more efficient to apply plaque material over the entire surface, and not to close each slot or clearance separately. Thus, you will handle even small, not visible floors.
The gaps in the floor must be filling with a solution to the entire depth of a special spatula. Then it is necessary to give the shp can dry and only after that proceed to the finish coating.
How to close defects and cracks in laminate
The slots in the laminate are dangerous that the surface of the surface of the surface will be much faster to absorb moisture, and this will lead to the deformation of the entire floor covering.
Transfer the floor (as in the case of a parquet coating) is not always the possibility. The simplest, fast and inexpensive tool is the use of a special repair solution for processing chips, cracks and defects in the laminate. This composition is sold in building stores in a large assortment, allowing you to choose the necessary color for your floor covering. In order not to damage the floor, it is not applied with a metal, but a rubber spatula.
The sealant is used to seal deep gaps and holes in the laminate. Wooden bars or rails are inserted into saving the cracks, the repair agent is not applied to the entire depth, but only on the upper part of the hole.
Shallow scratches, pulling on the laminate (with insignificant damage only the top layer) it is easy to disguise with special wax pencils.